Eats Beat

The new Al’s Hamburgers is an incredible success — a 1957 keepsake come back to life

One of 2020’s most amazing stories is in Arlington.

Ignored in recent years like a forgotten keepsake, the city’s iconic Al’s Hamburgers is booming again in its new location in Fielder Plaza, 1276 N. Fielder Road.

In any year, this double-stacked success would be big news.

In 2020, it’s nearly unthinkable.

After 64 years, Al’s is serving hundreds of old-time diner burgers and breakfasts like it’s the 1950s again, this time to families who never went to either of two previous locations on North Collins Street.

“It’s kind of amazing — we’re getting all these people coming in for the first time,” said Melody Lawrence, daughter of late burger grill-master Al Mathews and his wife, Thelma.

“You know, I never thought of this as moving very far. But all these people are saying, ‘Welcome to our area.’ “

The 4-mile move has brought new spirit to Al’s, known since 1957 for double cheeseburgers made from fresh ground chuck the old-fashioned way on grill-toasted buns.

At Al’s Drive-In restaurant in Arlington, Missy Freede is seen in 1983 delivering a bag of burgers alongside an advertisement painted in the store’s window for the restaurant’s specialty of the Double-Double Hamburger next to a “Help Wanted” sign taped to the window.
At Al’s Drive-In restaurant in Arlington, Missy Freede is seen in 1983 delivering a bag of burgers alongside an advertisement painted in the store’s window for the restaurant’s specialty of the Double-Double Hamburger next to a “Help Wanted” sign taped to the window. Joe Giron Star-Telegram Collection, UT Arlington Special Collections

When the Mathewses opened their original location near today’s Champions Park, it was surrounded by cattle pastures. Couples came for Coke dates served by car hops.

In 1998, Al’s made The New York Times for Mathews’ classic burgers and beloved griddle, a 1947 cast-iron model like Mathews once used at a now-long-gone Griddle System diner.

But the second location in a drab strip shopping center had become timeworn.

The new location in remodeled Fielder Plaza is far better, with a large dining room, a patio along Fielder Road and plenty of nearby business from neighborhoods, clinics and fans on their way to games at AT&T Stadium or Globe Life Field.

A lunch order ready to be served Wednesday, Oct. 14, 2020, at Al’s Hamburgers in Arlington.
A lunch order ready to be served Wednesday, Oct. 14, 2020, at Al’s Hamburgers in Arlington. Yffy Yossifor yyossifor@star-telegram.com

Al’s now draws larger breakfast crowds and more weekday diners for the daily lunch and dinner specials of pot roast or meatloaf.

“Our salads have really started taking off,” Lawrence said.

Al’s added jalapeno bacon a few years ago. It’s a good addition to the burgers, but it might be even better on the turkey club sandwich.

A “spicy big” 1/3-pound pepper jack cheeseburger has the jalapeno bacon, grilled onions and grilled jalapenos.

A turkey club sandwich with jalapeno bacon at Al’s Hamburgers.
A turkey club sandwich with jalapeno bacon at Al’s Hamburgers. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

When Al’s new location opened a few weeks ago, it drew a waiting line all weekend.

Go weekdays or evenings, and try the breakfasts.

Al’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily except Sunday; 817-275-8918, facebook.com/alshamburgerstx.

This story was originally published October 21, 2020 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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