Eats Beat

‘Fort Worth people have been very loyal.’ So he’ll upgrade his west side pizzeria

Hysen’s Nizza Pizza offers traditional New York-style pizzas and pastas.
Hysen’s Nizza Pizza offers traditional New York-style pizzas and pastas. Star-Telegram archives

In the vast sameness of mom-and-pop pizza-and-pasta restaurants, one standout is Hysen’s Nizza Pizza.

So Fort Worth residents freaked out last week when a construction fence went up.

Fear not, says Hysen Lushaj, from one of several local pizzeria families with roots in New York and a legacy in the Balkans.

“I finally got to buy the place, and I’m building a new one,” Lushaj said.

He and his wife, Mirsada, own Hysen’s Nizza Pizza, under remodeling at 401 University Drive. Another location is open at 3930 Glade Road in Colleyville.

“Fort Worth people have been very loyal to me,” he said. “Texas has been good to me. We’re sprucing up and we plan to be in Fort Worth a long time.”

Hysen and Mirsada Lushaj of Hysen’s Nizza Pizza in Fort Worth and Colleyville.
Hysen and Mirsada Lushaj of Hysen’s Nizza Pizza in Fort Worth and Colleyville. Courtesy photo

The family opened first near UT Arlington but sold that location in 2007 in favor of Colleyville and a former fast-food fish restaurant in the Fort Worth Cultural District, near the art museums.

“Everybody loves Texas,” he said. “It’s one of the last places left where you can reach out for the American dream. You can have a place, pay your rent and earn a salary. ... You can’t afford that everywhere.”

Now, he’s expanding the dining room in the old fast-food restaurant and improving the streetscape with better lighting.

The remodeled Hysen’s Nizza Pizza in Fort Worth.
The remodeled Hysen’s Nizza Pizza in Fort Worth. Courtesy photo

This year, he’s needed it.

“The people in the drive-thru kept us going,” he said.

When other pizzerias were closed, Hysen’s Nizza Pizza kept selling giant pizzas to go or family-size pasta dinners.

(Whether you need a pizza or food for an entire party, Hysen’s can sell it at the drive-thru.)

“This year — I don’t even want to think about this year,” he said.

Hysen Lushaj was much younger when he opened an Arlington restaurant before moving to Fort Worth and Colleyville.
Hysen Lushaj was much younger when he opened an Arlington restaurant before moving to Fort Worth and Colleyville. Darrell Byers Star-Telegram archives

Before construction began, the dining room had reopened and customers were deciding whether to line up or drive up for the simple, family-friendly pizzas and pasta platters.

The pizza is typical New York-style — crisp, foldable and sold in giant sizes, or as single slices big enough to make a lunch.

There’s also “stuffed” pizzas, including a popular stuffed spinach pizza, plus folded calzones and strombolis.

But Lushaj is proudest of the pastas.

Chicken penne alla vodka, similiar to the current chicken ziti alla vodka at Hysen’s Nizza Pizza, with a stuffed spinach pizza and a “the works” combo.
Chicken penne alla vodka, similiar to the current chicken ziti alla vodka at Hysen’s Nizza Pizza, with a stuffed spinach pizza and a “the works” combo. Brandon Wade Star-Telegram archives

The menu’s biggest seller is the ziti alla vodka.

It’s one of 20 specials selling for less than $10, or in a family-size portion for less than $20.

The other big sellers are the chicken Parmesan, grilled chicken al pesto, linguine in clam sauce and lasagna.

Spaghetti with meat sauce (clockwise fom top left), linguine primavera, pesto pastas and turtle cheesecake at Hysen’s Nizza Pizza.
Spaghetti with meat sauce (clockwise fom top left), linguine primavera, pesto pastas and turtle cheesecake at Hysen’s Nizza Pizza. Matt Slocum Star-Telegram archives

I’m not saying Hysen’s Nizza Pizza is worth driving past your own neighborhood favorite.

But I do hear that some customers in Fort Worth like it so much that while it’s closed, they’re going to the Colleyville location.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily; hysensnizzapizza.com.

This story was originally published September 28, 2020 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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