Eats Beat

Here’s a new grill and playground in south Fort Worth, with sweet-potato waffle fries

His new restaurant is going so well that chef Stefon Rishel opened another.

With the industry in a recession, Rishel is all smiles about his new Berry Street Ice House.

In the home of a former ill-conceived food hall, the Ice House opened this week at 2000 W. Berry St., serving burgers, sandwiches and salads.

An old trailer on the giant backyard playground is the stop for shakes and snow cones.

“This place just seemed so underutilized,” Rishel said last week, giving a tour of his new restaurant in the former Americado and Moon.

“Nobody took advantage of this grassy area. It’s a great place for kids to eat and run around. ... We want this to be a real family place.”

His newish Wishbone & Flynt restaurant in South Main Village is doing well, although for now the adjacent Amber Room bar is an extra dining room.

The new Berry Street Ice House replaced a bar and food-hall concept on West Berry Street.
The new Berry Street Ice House replaced a bar and food-hall concept on West Berry Street. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

“We’ve had to get super creative,” Rishel said.

Wishbone & Flynt added family-style takeout meals to help families get safe, inexpensive dinners.

In the same way, Berry Street Ice House is an inexpensive family night out.

The double cheddar burger “Frog Burger” is $11 with sweet-potato waffle fries.

A cheddar double Frog Burger at Berry Street Ice House.
A cheddar double Frog Burger at Berry Street Ice House. Handout photo

“It’s the same concept as at Wishbone & Flynt — brisket, chuck, short rib and belly, seared in duck fat — but it’s two thin patties, more like a diner burger,” Rishel said.

There’s an almond-grape-Dijonnaise chicken salad ($11!) and chcken skewers or wings in five flavors ($8-$13).

And there’s a $6 kids; menu.

His favorite item is the fried smoked-bologna sandwich with house-made cheese sauce ($11).

Berry Street Ice House is open daily for lunch or brunch and dinner; 817-386-0724, berrystreeticehouse.com.

This story was originally published August 18, 2020 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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