Eats Beat

In west Fort Worth, a steakhouse is closed and three barbecue restaurants have left

CORRECTION: The Rose Garden Tea Room on the Benbrook Traffic Circle has not changed management.

The Buffalo West steakhouse has closed, the latest in a spate of restaurant closings in west Fort Worth.

The mid-market steakhouse opened eight years ago in a landmark location built for the long-ago Steak & Ale Restaurant chain.

Buffalo West won new customers with family dinners during the coronavirus lockdown and seemed to be making a comeback. But it was known for its old-fashioned salad bar and country-club-style weekend brunch buffet, both knocked out by coronavirus health orders limiting self-service.

It’s the latest of several restaurants to close or leave the Western Hills neighborhood.

Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ moved from Camp Bowie Boulevard West to the Cityview neighborhood under the name Rufus Bar and Grill.

On the Benbrook Traffic Circle, BBQ on the Brazos moved back to its original home in the town of Cresson.

Spring Creek Barbecue, one of the last holdouts on Camp Bowie Boulevard West, announced it will not rebuild after a January fire.

Even during the coronavirus pandemic, though, nearby restaurants have opened. Little Germany, 6737 Camp Bowie Blvd., serves mid-price steaks and German dishes by a former chef from Edelweiss around the corner. Wild Acre, 6473 Camp Bowie Blvd., serves sandwiches and craft beers.

Dimassi’s Mediterranean Buffet, 6357 Camp Bowie Blvd., is a Houston-based Greek buffet. Kintaro, 6916 Camp Bowie Blvd., offers ramen by delivery only.

Buffalo West owners Mary and Paul McKinney and Chris Piekarski sent a one-paragraph letter Monday saying that “after many hours of reflection and consultation,” they decided to close.

The letter ends, “Stay safe and healthy.”

Buffalo West is at least the seventh notable Fort Worth-area restaurant to close during the coronavirus pandemic, along with Taverna (Dallas and Plano locations remain open), Bird Cafe, Deep Ellum Brewing (the Dallas flagship remains open), Cork & Pig Tavern on Crockett Row (an Irving location is open), Buttons Restaurant (moving to Dallas) and a Fred’s Texas Cafe location near TCU (other locations are open).

Several chain outlet locations have closed permananently incuding a Hoffbrau Steaks near the Fort Worth Zoo and a Cantina Laredo downtown. Many smaller restaurants have closed permanently, and other restaurants have suspended operations.

This story was originally published July 29, 2020 at 10:12 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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