Eats Beat

First big Fort Worth restaurant to close for good from COVID is Sundance Square anchor

Bird Café, an anchor restaurant in a historic Sundance Square landmark, will close May 22, owner Shannon Wynne and Sundance officials said.

“Coronavirus has worn out our ability to stay open at Bird,” said Wynne, a 40-year Dallas and Fort Worth restaurateur.

His other Sundance Square restaurant and bar, the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, remains open for take-out dining and will resume patio service soon, Wynne said. The family’s related Flying Fish and Rodeo Goat restaurants remain open.

The restaurant will remain open next week so customers can say farewell, he said.

Bird Cafe opened in 2013 in the 1889-vintage Land Title Block building, 111 E. Fourth St., on the corner diagonally opposite the Bass Performance Hall.

Bird became the signature restaurant for Bass Hall concertgoers and Van Cliburn International Piano Competition contestants, and drew weekend brunch crowds to Sundance Square Plaza. It was often rated the city’s No. 1 brunch on dining apps or in online polls.

When Bird opened, it was a then-trendy gastropub and brewpub twin to a Dallas restaurant, Meddlesome Moth.

The most recent chef, Brian Olenjack, left recently to become culinary director at Lonesome Dove Western Bistro.

Bird’s Victorian building, earlier the home of a working-class plate-lunch cafe, a jazz club and a Tex-Mex restaurant, found a stable tenant in 1995, when Wynne opened his first Flying Saucer there. In 2013, the Saucer moved to larger quarters nearby.

Bird Cafe was known for its interior decorated with the “Birds of Texas” American artworks by Fort Worth artists Scott and Stuart Gentling, who also painted the ceiling of the Bass Hall.

It’s at least the seventh notable local restaurant to close permanently as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, along with Tacos Del Norte (not related to a different Godley restaurant), a Hoffbrau Steak & Grill in Fort Worth (still open in Benbrook, Granbury and Haltom City), a Cork & Pig Tavern on Crockett Row (still open in Irving), a Dixie House Cafe near Mansfield (reopening soon at three Fort Worth locations), Buttons Restaurant (moving to Dallas) and Birdie Bop, which was inside the Moon Bar.

In Weatherford, Saltwater closed. A cousin restaurant, Shep’s Place, moved to 202 Fort Worth Highway into the former Shep’s Scoreboard, now named simply Shep’s..

In Dallas, the classic Highland Park Cafeteria will not reopen after 95 years, owners said this week. Atop Reunion Tower, Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck is also closed.

(This story has been updated to add the May 22 closing date.)

This story was originally published May 14, 2020 at 11:15 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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