Here’s how one Texas cafe kept its customers: good friends, good food and good prices

Opening Day is Friday.

Restaurants are back — but with only one-fourth of the seats.

By limiting seating to 25% of legal occupancy, Gov. Greg Abbott established a safe distance for diners and workers. But at the same time, he created a land rush for table space.

The long lines of cars waiting for takeout food and cocktails will become long, widely spaced lines of customers waiting for the few tables as each restaurant reopens.

The advice here is as always: Don’t wait in lines.

There’s a restaurant down the street that’s not busy. Search our website, Twitter or Yelp.com.

Some restaurateurs were not sure at midweek whether they will open Friday.

“A reporter said he thought I’d be doing cartwheels in the street — it’s too soon! We’re not ready,” said Kerry Roach of Jake & Dorothy’s Cafe, a picture-perfect American cafe open 72 years in small-town Stephenville.

In the Fort Worth area, Bonnell’s, Chef Point Cafe, Heim Barbecue, the Lunch Box, Nonna Tata and Waters are sticking to drive-thru service only for now.

Among those opening Friday with the permissible 25% of usual seating. : Beacon Cafe, Branch & Bird, Campisi’s, Hurtado Barbecue, Rio Mambo Tex Mex y Más, the Tipsy Oak and Wishbone & Flynt.

(Anyone age 65 or older or otherwise at-risk should not go out at all. Reservations may be required — book now for Mother’s Day. Limit six diners at the same table. Everybody is expected to wear a mask except when eating.)

In Stephenville, Jake & Dorothy’s will continue to serve only in the “drive-thru lane.”

(It’s really been such a success that the “lane” took over two lanes of a Stephenville city street.)

Jake & Dorothy’s beckons Friday with a $10.95 fried catfish platter and waffle fries.

At Sunday lunch, there’s roast beef or chicken-fried steak. And don’t forget the fruit, cream or meringue pies.

“You gotta keep going,” Roach said.

“My daddy would have done it. He wouldn’t have let this stop him. One day, a car crashed through the cafe wall, and he put a tarp up and kept right on serving.”

With customers rallying around old favorite restaurants, Jake & Dorothy’s has served up to 500 burgers on Tuesdays at $1 burger night.

Roach had to call in extra help to cook chicken and dressing for Easter, she said: “It was like Thanksgiving around here!”

Her restaurant is always a family bargain. It serves $7-$8 specials.

“I read about that chef up in Fort Worth selling family dinners — what’s his name? — Jon Bonnell — for $40,” Roach said, referring to the Bonnell’s and Waters founder.

“Up there, he does that, and people line up for it. Down here, people wouldn’t pay that much. They get a hot steak here for $5.99.”

Jake & Dorothy’s also pioneered its own invention: chicken-fried steak quesadillas.

“It’s good with the onion and peppers,” she said.

Jake & Dorothy’s is famous for chicken-fried steak, but Roach said customers should try the fried chicken.

“We cut it the old-fashioned way,” she said.

Jake & Dorothy’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily at 406 E. Washington St. (Business U.S. 377), Stephenville; 254-965-5211.

This story was originally published April 29, 2020 at 5:45 AM.