Eats Beat

Is Fort Worth the ‘new Austin’ for BBQ? 2-block-long lines greet Hurtado, Goldee’s

Barbecue fans lined up this month in Arlington and near Kennedale for the grand openings of two much-awaited Austin-style smokehouses:

Hurtado Barbecue had a two-block-long line Feb. 22 for the opening of its restaurant and serving line at 205 E. Front St. in downtown Arlington’s Urban Union district.

That’s on the same block where marketing executive Brandon Hurtado launched his business last year as a weekend Tex-Mex-style barbecue truck.

Now it has a full serving line, seating and a patio.

(A new Cane Rosso pizzeria next door, featured last week on “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives,” is on track to open next month. The restaurants are about a mile from AT&T Stadium.)

The new Hurtado is open for lunch and dinner (if it’s not sold out) Wednesday through Sunday; 682-323-5141, hurtadobbq.com.

The opening-day line Feb. 15 at Goldee’s criss-crossed the parking lot. Regular hours began Feb. 22.
The opening-day line Feb. 15 at Goldee’s criss-crossed the parking lot. Regular hours began Feb. 22. Courtesy photo

Goldee’s BBQ, run by three pitmasters from Austin, opened to long lines Feb. 15 in an old back-road barbecue restaurant south of Kennedale.

Pitmasters Dylan Taylor, Lane Milne and Jonny White, all originally from Austin, have experience at Texas favorites such as La Barbecue, Terry Black’s and Micklethwait Craft Meats.

Goldee’s serves brisket ($24/pound), pork ribs, regular or cheese-jalapeno sausage and turkey. Sandwiches cost $12.

It’s at 4645 Dick Price Road, in the former Kenneth’s True Pit Barbecue location between Kennedale and Rendon.

Goldee’s will become a stop on meat lovers’ south Tarrant County “barbecue tour” of the original Jambo’s, sausage favorite Longoria’s, old-time Hickory Stick BBQ and Fort Worth favorite Cousin’s.

It’s open for lunch Friday through Sunday; 682-401-3389, goldeesbbq.com.

Both restaurants are among several giving the Fort Worth-Arlington area the reputation as the “next Austin” for craft barbecue, along with smokehouses such as Heim, Panther City, Derek Allan’s, Dayne’s Craft and Smoke-A-Holics.

This story was originally published February 18, 2020 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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