Here’s the restaurant near Arlington where Christmas is a 200,000-light spectacle
When Arlington’s No. 1 Christmas dining destination opened 40 years ago, it was already out of style.
Now, 200,000 holiday lights and millions of sopaipillas later, a new generation searching for sincere, unique local restaurants is finding retro, kitschy Campo Verde.
In 1979, Campo Verde (“green field”) opened at 2918 W. Pioneer Parkway as a fajitas-and-margaritas roadhouse back when Six Flags was exciting and the Rangers were new. That was before Fort Worth and Arlington grew together.
Now, James “Smiley” Williams’ restaurant remains an over-the-top Christmas light show with a throwback menu of Arizonan- and Sonoran-style Mexican food, plus old-time helpings of chile-dusted chips, a garishly yellow queso and tortillas on request with squeezable Parkay spread.
Old-time Christmas songs like “White Christmas” or “Jingle Bell Rock” play endlessly as a toy train circles the dining room. (A recent lunch was completely free of Mannheim Steamroller or Trans-Siberian Orchestra.)
That’s the time to visit Campo Verde during December: lunch.
At dinner, it’s crowded chaos as families drive for miles to see the holiday wonderland.
Lunch, on the other hand, takes a more relaxed pace, and the prices are a bargain: $9-$14 for the regular platters, or less than $11 for a large burger with tater tots, chicken sandwich .or chicken-fried steak.
At midday, it’s also easier to take your time and order the 7-pound “World’s Largest Hamburger.”
If you can eat the entire burger and fries in an hour, it’s free. If not, or if you want the table to share, it’s $60.
Campo Verde gets a lot of backtalk over its Mexican food. But the chips, chimichangas and baskets of fresh sopaipillas are reminiscent of those in other popular 1980s restaurants.
There’s also chiles rellenos (about $17), stuffed zucchini, cabrito and a selection of game fajitas, such as buffalo and elk ($25.50).
A children’s menu offers 10 choices for $5.75.
Do not leave too soon. One of Campo Verde’s most endearing dishes is the full basket of fresh sopaipillas ($4.50) with honey packets and squeeze Parkay. (A fresh sopaipilla beats a funnel cake any day.)
One more note about the biggest change of all at Campo Verde:
The parking lot is newly paved, after years when it was as bumpy as an East Dallas street.
Campo Verde is open daily for lunch and dinner (except Christmas and Thanksgiving Day) at 2918 W. Pioneer Parkway (Spur 303). It’s between Fort Worth and Arlington near Bowen Road, about 3 miles north of Interstate 20; 817-275-7003, campoverde.us.
This story was originally published December 5, 2019 at 5:45 AM.
