Eats Beat

Is this the best Texas chili in Fort Worth? It’s at — surprise — an oyster bar.

For 38 years, cold weather has meant gumbo at J&J Oyster Bar.

But the return of wind chills also brings another winter warmer: J&J’s chili.

Chef Angel Mota came over last fall from 16 years at nearby Fred’s Texas Cafe and brought along some of Fred’s laid-back specials and style, particularly the chili and calf fries.

He only makes chili in season, but that season is here. So J&J offers big bowls of beefy Texas red, topped with cheese and fresh jalapenos.

Look, Fort Worth has a history with chili. This is where the first commercial chili powder was packed and sold by Pendery’s.

But today, it’s mighty tough to find a good bowl of chili.

The Kimbell Art Museum’s seasonal chili is good, but it’s only served about once a month in winter.

Dutch’s Hamburgers, M&O Station Grill and HG Sply Co. all serve excellent restaurant chili.

But right now, J&J’s might be best.

If you’re not familiar with J&J Oyster Bar, it’s a daily lunch and dinner stop for grilled or fried seafood.

When it opened in 1981 in an old-timey chrome diner three blocks south, J&J quickly became known for oysters, grilled shrimp, catfish and platters.

Today, J&J is in an equally dilapidated, 50-year-old former Taco Bell. Now, it might be better known for grilled seafood, fish tacos and ceviche tostadas.

In the middle of a gentified hipster West 7th neighborhood, J&J is a haven for rodeo cowboys, beer drinkers and anyone looking for a menu that does not include avocado toast or spicy chicken.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily at 612 University Drive, at West Sixth Street; 817-335-2756, jjoysterbar.com.

This story was originally published October 15, 2019 at 5:45 AM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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