Eats Beat

This pancake Monte Cristo tastes like State Fair food, but it’s in Fort Worth

bud@star-telegram.com

For a Monte Cristo, try the Pancake House

Hey, Bud! Who’s got the best Monte Cristo sandwich?

—Arlington reader trying to stump me

As it happens, Ol’ South Pancake House just rolled out a Monte Cristo (similar to a croque monsieur) made with pancake batter and fried. (It tastes like something from the State Fair.) Go by 1509 S. University Drive after 5 p.m. Saturday for a family festival benefiting Cook Children’s Medical Center.

Explaining a Waterside restaurant closing

Hey, Bud! What’s up with Taco Diner closing in Waterside?

—Guy who misses the big patio tree

The Sundance Square location is doing fine. But Taco Diner has always searched for an identity — it opened as a contemporary Mexico City-style concept, but it wasn’t really either a taqueria or a “diner.” The Waterside location suffered by proximity to with one of the city’s very best Mexican restaurants, Mesero in Clearfork.

White Settlement lands a catfish restaurant

Hey, Bud! What’s the new catfish place I hear about on Loop 820 West?

—West side reader who misses good catfish

Belzoni’s Catfish Cafe, 110 N. Jim Wright Freeway (Loop 820 West), is a new lunch-only catfish cafe (closed Sundays) with a lot of potential. The owners are from Belzoni, Miss., and have operated a festival trailer named Cooley’s Catfish. More on Belzoni’s soon. Don’t forget the Lisa’s Chicken locations for good catfish.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.
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