Eats Beat

This new HG Sply is the best yet in lots of ways. It’s like 3 restaurants in 1

A grilled chicken salad at HG Sply Co. Trophy Club includes beets, cucumber, riced broccoli and cauliflower, grapes, candied pecans and dried cranberries.
A grilled chicken salad at HG Sply Co. Trophy Club includes beets, cucumber, riced broccoli and cauliflower, grapes, candied pecans and dried cranberries. bud@star-telegram.com

The biggest and best HG Sply Co. yet is open, and it’s almost three restaurants in one.

The name and the core of the menu is still HG Sply Co., a six-year-old Dallas concept that originally referred to “hunter-gatherer” and served up paleo meat, seafood and vegetable platters and bowls.

But the new, 25,000-square-foot Texas 114 location in Trophy Club also has a giant game patio and food items from its related Dallas restaurants, the new Hero and now-closed HG predecessor Remedy.

Result: This HG Sply Co is simpler and more fun than Fort Worth’s.

The menu has a long list of salads and bowls, but the popular dishes at HG Sply are bar-and-grill basics: nachos, tacos, burgers and chili.

The lighter HG Sply vegan queso is here, with all the flavor and joy of regular cheddar queso but none of the guilt.

The pulled-pork nachos with pepper Jack are enough for the table to share. The bison chili with beans isn’t purely Texan, but it’s more virtuous than regular chili without losing flavor.

The Trophy Club location adds tuna crudo, salmon poke and shrimp or fish tacos.

But regulars from Fort Worth will immediately note the choice of more burgers and sandwiches — the homestyle Remedy Burger, for example, along with a cheddar “farmhouse burger” and a crispy chicken sandwich.

The Trophy Club HG Sply also adds a pepper Jack chicken sandwich with avocado that begs for fresh jalapenos.

This location also has different entrees from Fort Worth: a 24-ounce porterhouse (share it), other steaks, a large pork chop platter, carbonara and an enticing half-roast chicken with goat-cheese dumplings and roasted mushrooms.

For now, the Trophy Club location only trails Fort Worth in desserts, and that will be expanded soon.

The current menu is only a “soft-opening” version and more items will be added, including brunch.

That means HG Sply will be even more fun.

The new location’s bar menu offers watermelon margaritas and a similar craft cocktail selection.

The new location is open for lunch and dinner daily at 2980 Texas 114, 817-888-8990, hgsplyco.com.

The Fort Worth location opens for lunch or brunch (10 a.m. weekends) daily at 1621 River Run, 682-730-6070.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.
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