Eats Beat

Bearded Lady is back, and that means so is the L.U.S.T. burger. But there’s more

Formerly a busy pub, the Bearded Lady is becoming a popular restaurant.

The new South Main Street location has so many more items, the Lady is now the most ambitious restaurant near the south end of downtown.

Five blocks from the Trinity Metro rail station and only a half-mile south of the Omni Fort Worth, the Bearded Lady serves lunch and dinner daily in a former flag warehouse.

The old location was a cozy pub that became known for its L.U.S.T. burger, a poblano-feta-stuffed Gouda cheeseburger ($12.70) ranked the No. 3 best in Texas three years ago by Texas Monthly.

The new menu includes six burgers or brisket sandwiches, but there’s more than the Fort Worth burger-and-beer fare.

A quinoa-kale salad with bacon ($9.90, or $12.10 with bacon) was full of flavor, much of it from the agave-lemon mascarpone along with yams and a red-chili vinaigrette.

The other salad, called “Texas smoke” (same price) is a cranberry-pecan salad with smoked Gouda and house ranch.

Shannon Osbakken said diners are checking out new menu items like the Comeback cheddar-brisket sandwich with tabasco-mayo-ketchup “comeback sauce” ($13.90).

For one of the Lady’s new creations, try the Pigmiento, a smoked pork-pimiento cheese sandwich with blueberry compote ($12).

The Lady’s fried leeks made the trip from Magnolia, along with the grilled-cheese sandwich.

The Bearded Lady is a cavernous gastropub with a convivial patio, larger but not as cozy or personal as its old location (now Magnolia Tree).

It’s open for lunch and dinner Sundays and weeknights, until midnight Friday and Saturday at 300 S. Main St.; 817-349-9832,

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.