Eats Beat

Ribs, anyone? White Beard’s BBQ near Azle is not your typical roadside barbecue

Barbecue seems focused on brisket these days, but White Beard’s BBQ is all about the ribs.

In a tiny mobile home on Texas 199 between Azle and Springtown, White Beard’s serves hickory-smoked St. Louis-cut pork ribs that achieved perfection, even on a drowsy weekend afternoon.

White Beard’s is not like the typical slap-it-out roadside barbecue stand. The Tucker family seems to make almost everything from scratch, and the plates are meticulously arranged and served at the six tables in the tidy dining area.

The ribs and what tasted like fresh green beans were a complete surprise. Pintos became “gourmet” beans with bits of brisket.

White Beard’s also serves two homemade sauces, the sweeter original sauce or a subtle three-pepper with a slow burn, called the “chiberpeno” sauce.

The brisket was lean, soft and flavorful, but sliced thin and lacked much of a smoky ring, at least on this day.

A combo plate with ribs and brisket is $15.25. Other choices include jalapeno sausage or hickory-smoked sausage.

There’s also a “Bearded Beast” brisket-sausage sandwich, spuds and a “brisket bowl.”

White Beard’s has a bigger menu most weekends, including brisket nine-layer nachos that have become the talk of Sanctuary and Reno.

White Beard’s is open for lunch and dinner Thursdays through Saturdays; 100 Live Oak St, at Texas 199, 817-456-1155,

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.