Eats Beat

‘The stars have aligned’ for chef Hicks, leaving Fort Worth for Burleson

Former Buttons chef Keith Hicks is now in the kitchen at The Rim, expanding the menu at that Burleson restaurant.

Rim owner Brent Johnson teamed with Hicks years ago to open a comfort-food restaurant in Fort Worth.

When Hicks went his way and eventually founded Buttons, Johnson started the Rio Mambo restaurants and added The Rim as a retro burger-and-beer grill. (It’s known for an Airstream trailer that serves as the kitchen, like in a food park.)

“The stars have aligned” and The Rim will mix retro with soul, Johnson said.

Hicks said he’ll add a few old Buttons specials, like the beef rib.

A new ownership team recently bought into Buttons. The restaurant served between 500 and 600 customers on Mother’s Day, Hicks said.

(Buttons has thrived as a nightspot, but has tried twice to revamp the menu and draw lunch or Saturday brunch business.)

The Rim is open for lunch and dinner daily at 295 E. Renfro St.; 817-720-7707,

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.