The craft barbecue kings of Fort Worth have new competition.
After what seemed like forever, Derek Allan’s Texas Barbecue is open on Eighth Avenue, bringing barbecue to a major southside Fort Worth crossroad at West Rosedale Street in the hospital district.
It’s the first Fort Worth restaurant to start as a video series. Derek Allan’s has posted 13 episodes YouTube.com, with such titles as “My Pit Building Setup,” “Interior Design” and “Hangin’ Sausage Racks.”
But don’t think Allan’s barbecue is all show.
At his opening this week, the wagyu brisket sold out quickly at $22 a pound. But the pork ribs and house-recipe sausage showed just as much care, and ribs and turkey were loaded with Allan’s peppery “dalmatian” rub.
On Saturdays, Allan also smokes wagyu meatloaf ($19/pound) and beef ribs ($23).
Along with the new Flores Barbecue at the Trailhead in Clearfork, Derek Allan’s is the first real competition for Heim Barbecue, the truck-turned-restaurant-turned-bigger-restaurant that has dominated craft barbecue in Fort Worth for four years.
Allan, from a Fort Worth family, started with a barbecue food truck in Grapevine and had hoped to open a location in Frisco.
But he picked Fort Worth when a prime location opened up on Eighth Avenue. It had been a healthy foods take-out, but it was built as a gas station in 1923 and was rebuilt in 1955 as a Sigmor Shamrock (now Valero) gas-convenience store.
The corner is ideal: within walking distance of four major hospitals, on the way home for thousands in southwest Fort Worth, and close to Magnolia Avenue revitalization but with plenty of parking.
Sides include above-average pintos, and the chipotle mac-and-cheese gets good reviews. For dessert, the banana pudding and pecan pie parfait include housemade vanilla.
More barbecue restaurants with new locations or expansions:
▪ Hurtado Barbecue is serving Fridays and Saturdays at Division Brewing, 506 E. Main St., Arlington, and finishing its own restaurant in a historic building at 205 E. Front St.; hurtadobbq.com.
▪ Goldee’s Barbecue, featuring a team of friends who have worrked at La Barbecue, Terry Black’s and other Austin restaurants, is under construction at 4645 Dick Price Road south of Kennedale.