Eats Beat

A Wagyu steak — in Texas? Hoffbrau Steaks brings exotic beef that fits your budget

$120 steak sandwich in Fort Worth?

Bud Kennedy & the Eats Beat gang tries a $120 A5 Wagyu Katsu Sando sandwich at B&B Butchers in the Shops at Clearfork in Fort Worth.
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Bud Kennedy & the Eats Beat gang tries a $120 A5 Wagyu Katsu Sando sandwich at B&B Butchers in the Shops at Clearfork in Fort Worth.

Dry-aged Wagyu steaks sound expensive.

Not at Hoffbrau Steaks & Grill, where a Wagyu strip costs $19.75.

It’s from Texas-raised Wagyu cattle, not from Japan. But the flavor of Hoffbrau’s special compares to meatier, high-end steaks at more expensive restaurants.

It’s not the softest cut around, and it’s not for everybody. If you just want a good steak. Hoffbrau’s sliced smoked sirloin should make you happy, or one of the Angus ribeyes.

But if you want an exotic beef experience, the Wagyu strips are among the leanest steaks in a mid-price steakhouse.

Hoffbrau is sort of a mid-price miracle. The most expensive steak is less than $30, including sides.

Right now, the big news involves Mother’s Day. Next weekend, all locations will serve prime rib in a small or large cut ($21.95-$24.95).



Owner Rainey Fogiel says the new Benbrook location will open sometime this summer. It’s at 8501 Benbrook Blvd. (U.S. 377) at Interstate 20.

Her husband, J. Aron Fogiel, said Benbrook is perfect for the next location because there aren’t any full-service restaurants in town with a mixed-beverage license from the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission.

Plus the people in Benbrook are very nice,” he said.

The location, off the interestate, will bring in more customers, which will hopefully offset any cannibalization from having multiple locations in the area.

The most familiar Hoffbrau is at 1712 S. University Drive, Fort Worth, open since 1982; 817-870-1952.

Other locations are at 4613 Denton Highway, Haltom City, and 315 U.S. 377 East, Granbury, hoffbrausteakandgrill.com.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.

Carla Jimenez covers breaking business news and commercial retail development. Born and raised in Euless, she took a detour in the Midwest for a few years, but she’s back in the land of football, barbecue and Dr Pepper.


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