Eats Beat

‘Triple B’ biscuits, desserts worth the trip to Rosedale Street

bud@star-telegram.com

The Rosedale Renaissance is real.

Against the odds, chef Ben Merritt’s new Ben’s Triple B is drawing lunch crowds and weekend beer drinkers to a new grill East Rosedale Street near Texas Wesleyan University.

They’re just not early risers. So opening time has been adjusted to 10 a.m. But that’s the perfect time for one of Merritt’s big, fluffy biscuits.

That’s the first “B” in Ben’s Triple B, and definitely the most important. (The other “B’s: are burgers and brews.)

Even if you stop after the first “B,” the biscuits are worth the trip. They’re $2, or $5-$9 in combinations with fried chicken, chicken-fried steak, bacon or another topping from Merritt’s combo menu.

If you want another “B,” consider another biscuit.

The dessert cherry pie on a biscuit with premium vanilla ice cream ($6.95) is enough to stop traffic on Rosedale. The other dessert is a strawberry shortcake on a biscuit ($6.95), although chocolate sauce seems out of place.

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A Buffalo-sauce chicken biscuit with blue cheese at Ben’s Triple B. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

If you want to move on to a different “B,” the burger menu offers a choice of seven burgers for $4.25-$6.95.

The burger that packs the biggest punch is the “Vaquero,” a pepper-jack cheesrburger with jalapenos, chorizo and grilled onions ($5.95).

(The day I went, the burger didn’t measure up to Merritt’s signature house burger at his other restaurant, Fixture Kitchen. It’s on the same Pearl Snap Kolaches bun.).

The Ben’s menu also offers four salads, including a fruit salad with strawberries, green apple and grapes.

Ben’s is off to a remarkable start, drawing long lunch lines some days and a weekend crowd of beer drinkers who have been hoping for someplace like Fred’s or Rodeo Goat but on the east side.

The 80-year-old buidings were formerly a drugstore and furniture store. Ben’s is part of Wesleyan’s effort to draw business to Rosedale and improve the Polytechnic Heights neighborhood around the campus.

Ben’s is open at 10 a.m. daly for late breakfast, lunch and dinner; 3020 E. Rosedale St., 682-385-9262, facebook.com/bens3b or bens3b.com.

If you’ve never tried Fixture Kitchen, it’s open for lunch or brunch and dinner weekdays and Saturdays, brunch Sundays; 401 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-708-2663, fixturefw.com.



Liquid nitrogen, which comes out at -320 degrees, chills the ice cream at Hurst's Sub-Zero.

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Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.

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