Eats Beat

A tater tot triumph at new Fort Worth bar-and-grill near Colonial

The new Rogers RoundHouse has refined the burger-and-beer patio.

In a combination barn and playground on Rogers Road near the railroad yards, Rogers serves a casual menu but with a few notably classy touches.

For example, Rogers RoundHouse has restored the fine art of the tater tot.

You know how some restaurants add chile powder or a special seasoning to make their fries addictive?

Rogers does the same with the lowly tater tot, and the result is must-try patio food ($4, or $10 as “loaded” tots).

They’re served with Rogers’ sauce, a tangy aioli with a mixture of flavors, maybe including honey mustard and barbecue.

There’s another hidden surprise: the nachos.

Fresh-fried tostadas are meticulously arranged around a plate, then topped with cheese and thin slices of fresh jalapeno. The result is a nacho plate ($10) that looks like it was made by a chef, not dumped randomly on a plate.

Rogers’ sauce is also served on the burger, a simple double cheeseburger with shredded lettuce, pickles and pico de gallo ($10), or add other toppings.

Rogers brags on the burger, and the wagyu beef has more flavor than most. But the potato bun doesn’t hold up. You’ll need a fork.

Other menu items include typical nachos, quesadillas, salads and ice cream sandwiches from Curly’s Frozen Custard.

A brunch menu begins soon with a bacon-and-eggs breakfast, biscuits-and-gravy and a bacon-egg-and-tots burger.

Rogers RoundHouse is open for lunch and dinner daily at 1616 Rogers Road, behind University Park Village; 817-367-9348, rogersroundhouse.com.

This story was originally published April 2, 2019 at 11:31 PM.

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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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