Eats Beat

After 40 years: New boss, same family at Szechuan in Fort Worth

Tung ting duck and beef szechuan style served with steamed rice at Szechan. Photographed Thursday July 29, 2005 . (Special to the Star-Telegram/ Richard W. Rodriguez)
Tung ting duck and beef szechuan style served with steamed rice at Szechan. Photographed Thursday July 29, 2005 . (Special to the Star-Telegram/ Richard W. Rodriguez) Special to the Star-Telegram

There’s a sign at Szechuan Restaurant about a new owner, but Shuoh “Paul” Chang is not new to Szechuan.

In the restaurant’s 40-year history at 5712 Locke Ave., Chang has been there almost the whole time, starting in high school and working for his uncle and Szechuan’s founder, the late Herman Liu.

Liu retired from the daily grind last year at 70. He was 71 when he died Jan. 27.

“We’re going to keep everything as much the same as possible,” said Chang, reorganizing Szechuan around Liu’s original partners.

He ran the former Szechuan Cityview for several years before it was split off from the west side location about a year ago. (The Cityview location now belongs to Dallas restaurateur Ricky Huang.)

Customers’ No. 1 order is still the sesame chicken, Chang said. (The hot-sour soup is the best cold or allergy cure available without a co-pay.)

Szechuan is open for lunch and dinner daily in the Locke-Blocke, Locke Avenue at Camp Bowie Boulevard next to Horne Street; tel:8177387300, facebook.com

This story was originally published March 21, 2019 at 11:01 PM.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat. Support my work with a digital subscription
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