Eats Beat

After 40 years: New boss, same family at Szechuan in Fort Worth

Tung ting duck and beef szechuan style served with steamed rice at Szechan. Photographed Thursday July 29, 2005 . (Special to the Star-Telegram/ Richard W. Rodriguez)
Tung ting duck and beef szechuan style served with steamed rice at Szechan. Photographed Thursday July 29, 2005 . (Special to the Star-Telegram/ Richard W. Rodriguez) Special to the Star-Telegram

There’s a sign at Szechuan Restaurant about a new owner, but Shuoh “Paul” Chang is not new to Szechuan.

In the restaurant’s 40-year history at 5712 Locke Ave., Chang has been there almost the whole time, starting in high school and working for his uncle and Szechuan’s founder, the late Herman Liu.

Liu retired from the daily grind last year at 70. He was 71 when he died Jan. 27.

“We’re going to keep everything as much the same as possible,” said Chang, reorganizing Szechuan around Liu’s original partners.

He ran the former Szechuan Cityview for several years before it was split off from the west side location about a year ago. (The Cityview location now belongs to Dallas restaurateur Ricky Huang.)



Customers’ No. 1 order is still the sesame chicken, Chang said. (The hot-sour soup is the best cold or allergy cure available without a co-pay.)

Szechuan is open for lunch and dinner daily in the Locke-Blocke, Locke Avenue at Camp Bowie Boulevard next to Horne Street; tel:8177387300, facebook.com

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.

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