Eats Beat

New hours, new bison burger at old-fashioned Roy Pope Grocery

State-ranked Texas BBQ favorite moving to Fort Worth

Flores Barbecue which started as a San Marcos truck and will move to Fort Worth in April. The Whitney location will close on Jan. 28, 2019.
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Flores Barbecue which started as a San Marcos truck and will move to Fort Worth in April. The Whitney location will close on Jan. 28, 2019.

Before Kincaid’s, there was Roy Pope Grocery.

Two years before, to be exact. Now the old-fashioned corner market on Collinwood Avenue three blocks west of Kincaid’s is open evenings and grills original meat-market burgers.

For the first time in a generation, Roy Pope Grocery is open from 9 a.m. until 6:30 p.m. daily except Sundays, serving both small and large burgers along with a new bison burger.

The bison burger comes with cheddar, pepperjack and havarti cheeses, and bacon on request.

The leaf lettuce, red onion and red tomato are right out of the produce section. And the bun is buttered and grill-toasted, the way Roy Pope’s has for decades. Alongside, there’s onion rings or steak fries.

When you walk into Roy Pope’s, that’s what Kincaid’s was like a generation ago: grocery shelves, checkout stands and a meat market with excellent fried chicken, barbecue and side dishes like deviled eggs.

A simple seating area has been added.

In 1944, 75 years ago, the late Roy Pope founded the market at Collinwood and Merrick Street.

In 1946, he and Charles Kincaid opened Pope-Kincaid Grocery at Camp Bowie Boulevard and Collinwood nearby, but they disagreed over the focus of that store and each kept his own market.



Roy Pope also sells smaller burgers for $3.99, a turkey burger for $4.99, deli sandwiches and plate lunches with entrees such as meat loaf or chicken.

In the mornings, Roy Pope sells breakfast burritos with egg, sausage and cheese.

The entire deli lunch line is open until 3 weekdays, 2 Saturdays, with burgers until 6:30.

Roy Pope Grocery is open from 9 a.m. through early dinner weekdays and Saturdays at 2300 Merrick St.; roypopegrocery.com

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Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.

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