Eats Beat

Haltom Theater diner still a work in progress

Plans keep changing for the restaurant at the restored Haltom Theater, and it may take a while to establish the adjoining lunch-and-dinner cafe.

Retired Clown Burger owner Bill Louthan is the latest to walk out of a cooking gig at the 78-year-old moviehouse. He was grilling sliders with queso that were very much like the simplest burgers served at his family’s nearby grill on Stanley Keller Road.

Plans for an Enchiladas Ole expansion also have been canceled.

For now, the menu is still a disjointed selection of items such as a cheesesteak “Haltom hoagie,” a stuffed sausage, nachos or street tacos.

Some of the prices still seem more like you’d find at a concert concession stand. Two simple street tacos sell for $10; same for the tiny, barren slider, just beef and queso on a bun with a few fries.

The restaurant did not have basics last weekend such as iced tea. I asked for hot sauce with the tacos; the server brought sriracha.

All this will work out in time. The owners have been busy getting a performing arts theater open, and the restaurant will improve.

It’s open at 11 a.m. daily for lunch through dinner at 5611 U.S. 377 (East Belknap Street); 682-250-5678, haltomtheater.com.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.
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