Eats Beat

This 24-hour cafe serves burgers in the middle of a Stock Show cattle barn

The Stockman’s Cafe is the nerve center of the Stock Show cattle barns, and not only because it’s open 24 hours.

For decades, ranchers and teenagers have gathered through the wee hours in the burger-breakfast stand inside a drafty cattle barn.

Now, the Stockman’s Cafe has moved to a fancy new home in Cattle Barn No. 1, featuring air conditioning, heat and a much larger menu of burgers, sandwiches and Coburn’s barbecue.

The Stockman’s has moved into the artisan-burger market, offering a “Grand Champion” barbecue-bacon-cheddar burger and a “Will” barbecue-Gouda-onion-string burger among six choices.

Top them with a choice of pickles from a gourmet pickle bar, including bloody-Mary pickles.”

Sandwiches range from a Cuban press to a ham-and-cheese with brown sugar-pineapple sauce, or a smoked turkey-cranberry sandwich.

The restaurant also serves brisket and jalapeno sausage, calf fries and Coburn’s hearty chili con carne.

Do not overlook the choice of potatoes: waffle fries, crinkle-cut sweet-potato fries, breakfast potatoes or baked-potato salad.

The morning breakfast menu includes breakfast tacos, paninis and biscuits with gravy.

Yes, there’s a Caesar salad or a chef’s salad.

The Stockman’s Cafe is open 24 hours inside Cattle Barn No. 1, 3501 Burnett Tandy Drive, 817-877-2400,

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.