Eats Beat

A flashy Brooklyn pizzeria opens in Clearfork, and there’s more pizza news

bud@star-telegram.com

These are great days for local pizza.

The first location of Grimaldi’s Coal Brick-Oven Pizzeria, a Brooklyn favorite for three decades, is open in the Shops at Clearfork.

That’s on top of the local pizzeria news: The city’s first i Fratelli Pizza take-out shop is open on Eighth Avenue.

Add in the new broader menu at Cane Rosso, the coming next year of Zoli’s and the opening of new dining rooms at Rocco’s and at retro Parton’s, and the pizza news is all good despite a couple of uninspired chains closing locations.

The new Grimaldi’s has a prime location on Monahans Avenue next door to Amorino, the Parisian coffee-and-sweets shop that styles gelato cones shaped like flowers.

Grimaldi’s serves three items: pizzas, calzones and salads. The pizzas and calzones come in three sizes ranging from a foot wide to a foot-and-a-half.


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The specialties are a Margherita, a Brooklyn Bridge” sausage, “The Don” with sausage, meatballs and pepperoni and a seasonal special chicken-and-basil in a vodka-tomato cream sauce.

The only salad for now has spinach and goat cheese with pecans, but expect others to return when romaine lettuce gets the all-clear.

Grimaldi’s is open for lunch and dinner dally at 5276 Monahans Ave.; 817-377-0642, grimaldispizzeria.com

i Fratelli plays it square

if you’ve tried Campisi’s square Sicilian pizzas, then you’re familiar with i Fratelli Pizza, a similar product from take-out shops founded 30 years ago by a Campisi cousin.

It took forever to bring i Fratelli to Fort Worth, but the new location is open at 1907 Eighth Ave. near Richmond Avenue.

If you want to try it out, the shop offers a “slice” — really a personal-size square pizza — for $5, or $6-$7 with a premium topping such as grilled chicken, bacon or bianco sauce.

The new i Fratelli is open for take-out lunch, dinner and delivery daily; 817-927-7779, ifratellipizza.com, or visit 16 other locations including Grapevine, Keller or Southlake.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 15 Texas Legislature sessions. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas dining, restaurants and food.

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