Some barbecue restaurants brag more about their beer selection.
The new Cowtown Brewing is a beer hall that should brag more about its barbecue.
The downtown brewhouse is off to a booming start as a bar and hangout. It recently added a limited menu of brisket, sausage and ribs smoked in a trailer outside.
Jordy Jordan, owner of a barbecue restaurant in Mansfield, has a hand in the operation. But the barbecue is different from what he serves at Big D Barbecue, he said, although the rubs and sauces are the same.
Cowtown is not going to threaten the top-ranked barbecue restaurants anytime soon. But if you can’t get away from downtown, Cowtown is a good stop for lunch or dinner along East Belknap Street, 1 mile east of Sundance Square.
The brisket was above average one night this week, with a good rub and smoke ring. Pork ribs were meaty but unremarkable.
The “cowboy beans” were the best side dish, although a black-pepper-sausage mac-and-cheese was interesting.
On this night, the mild sauce seemed to be missing something from Jordan’s traditional “organic” formula. The consistency was almost like a Carolina mustard sauce, but the flavor was off. (The hotter sauce had a much more balanced flavor.)
Jordan said Cowtown will launch a larger menu soon.
Cowtown Barbecue is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. If you know where the Sonic Drive-In is downtown, Cowtown is across the street; 1301 E. Belknap St., cowtownbrewco.com.