Eats Beat

This new brewhouse in Fort Worth also dishes up barbecue

Ribs, brisket, slaw and black-pepper-sausage-mac-and-cheese at Cowtown Brewing downtown.
Ribs, brisket, slaw and black-pepper-sausage-mac-and-cheese at Cowtown Brewing downtown.

Some barbecue restaurants brag more about their beer selection.

The new Cowtown Brewing is a beer hall that should brag more about its barbecue.

The downtown brewhouse is off to a booming start as a bar and hangout. It recently added a limited menu of brisket, sausage and ribs smoked in a trailer outside.

Jordy Jordan, owner of a barbecue restaurant in Mansfield, has a hand in the operation. But the barbecue is different from what he serves at Big D Barbecue, he said, although the rubs and sauces are the same.

Cowtown is not going to threaten the top-ranked barbecue restaurants anytime soon. But if you can’t get away from downtown, Cowtown is a good stop for lunch or dinner along East Belknap Street, 1 mile east of Sundance Square.

The brisket was above average one night this week, with a good rub and smoke ring. Pork ribs were meaty but unremarkable.

Eats Beat Ep. 147

DFW Restaurant Week

The “cowboy beans” were the best side dish, although a black-pepper-sausage mac-and-cheese was interesting.

On this night, the mild sauce seemed to be missing something from Jordan’s traditional “organic” formula. The consistency was almost like a Carolina mustard sauce, but the flavor was off. (The hotter sauce had a much more balanced flavor.)

Jordan said Cowtown will launch a larger menu soon.

Cowtown Barbecue is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. If you know where the Sonic Drive-In is downtown, Cowtown is across the street; 1301 E. Belknap St.,

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Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth guy who covered high school football at 16 and has moved on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 16 Texas Legislature sessions. First on the scene of a 1988 DFW Airport crash, he interviewed passengers running from the burning plane. He made his first appearance in the paper before he was born: He was sold for $600 in the adoption classifieds.