South Main Village has the sharpest new restaurant in Fort Worth, and also one of the oldest.
Four Sisters — A Taste of Vietnam opens any day now after a few practice runs for Tuan Pham, a former chef at leading local sushi-noodle restaurants.
North on Main, 50-year favorite Jesús BBQ Family Restaurant is about to undergo a minor makeover. More on that in a moment.
Four Sisters is opening with a limited menu of six entrees, with more to come later. The starting lineup: pork with rice noodles, egg noodles, fried rice, crab fried rice, beef pho or stir-fried lobster.
It’s meant to be basic, homestyle Vietnamese fare, the way Pham remembers from family dinners with his sisters and mother.
“People say they miss Mom’s cooking or Grandma’s cooking,” Pham said.
“That’s what I hope to bring.”
The sleek, cozy restaurant is trimmed in light woods with large windows looking out on the emerging development along Main.
It’s in a new building at Main and East Dashwood Streets, near Rosedale Street a block from Pouring Glory Growler Fill Station & Grill.
“I hope this area becomes more focused on showcasing food and culture in traditional ways,” Pham said — “rather than taking it out of culture and making fusion out of it.”
The most popular dishes are the fish-sauce fried wings (nuoc mam), crab fried rice and stir-fried lobster, he said.
▪ Two blocks north, Jesús BBQ Family Restaurant is marking its 50th year serving inexpensive Tex-Mex platters, one of the south side’s favorite chicken-fried steaks and housemade fried pies.
Jesús hasn’t changed much since Jesús Borja, 89, opened in 1969, and he stlll helps in the kitchen.
The restaurant will take a few days off in early November for some interior work: new booths, a fresh coat of paint and a new entryway with windows. (The family hasn’t decided whether to take the bars off the windows, a throwback to a past era of a tougher South Main.)
“It’s a new scene here — people love it,” the family’s Mary Martinez said: “People ride bikes here. We have a lot of new neighbors.”