A life of love and tamales: Virgie Martinez retires from backyard landmark Mi Cocinita
The best little Tex-Mex cafe in Fort Worth is closed.
Mi Cocinita Restaurant, a quirky backyard cafe behind Virgie Martinez’s girlhood home in south Fort Worth, is officially out of business after 50 years and two generations of handmade tamales and enchilada platters.
Martinez grew up working alongside her mother, Betty Mendez, in the tiny, hidden Bryan Avenue restaurant honored by the Star-Telegram in 1977 for the “best Mexican food in Fort Worth.”
Now 79, she’s retiring to help care for her husband, Joe.
“I’ve been here for the long run, because I love it so much,” Martinez said.
The restaurant has been closed intermittently in recent years as the Martinezes battled health problems.
Her retirement comes on the heels of the closing of both Aguilera’s Cafe and Granny’s Tacos on the historic north side of Fort Worth, both tiny, out-of-the-way family restaurants that developed a following from as far away as Dallas for owners’ sincerity and seniority.
Martinez inherited a restaurant that opened in a the family garage in a residential neighborhood before it was protected by zoning regulations.
Until the 1980s, Latino neighborhoods in both north and south Fort Worth were neglected and left unzoned so adjacent packinghouses and industrial plants could expand anytime.
So instead of being “grandfathered” in, Mi Cocinita was mothered in.
Martinez enclosed the driveway to create a sun room and larger dining area.
When the larger Mi Cocina restaurants expanded from Dallas to Fort Worth, Martinez added the translation to clarify that her restaurant was Mi Cocinita, “My Little Kitchen.”
Customers came for tamales, crispy tacos crimped into a basket-shaped shell (instead of folded) and enchiladas in old-time, thick chili sauce.
“I love my customers so much and they have been so good to me,” Martinez said.
‘But I have decided to retire and take care of Joe.”
A sneak peek at Doc B’s Fresh
The new restaurant to open in the Shops at Clearfork might be Doc B’s Fresh Kitchen.
If you want a peek at the Chicago-founded casual restaurant chain, a Dallas location is open at 2021 McKinney Ave.
The Doc B’s locations all have different menus and decor, but expect some of the same attention to quality, sauces and seasonings. Doc B’s has a well-rounded chain-restaurant menu, and the Dallas restaurant often has an unusually long line out the door at lunch.
A lunch pork chop was double-cut but dry. But a side of elote (corn) was distinctive, seasoned with Cajun spice along with chile powder and topped with plenty of lime and cilantro.
The menu includes about 10 burgers and eight salads, with something for all tastes.
It’s open for lunch and dinner daily at McKinney and North Olive Street; 469-998-2330, docbsfreshkitchen.com
The Clearfork location will open at 5253 Marathon Ave.
Honor America with hot dogs
With all the new ice cream shops — Amorino, Creamistry, Popbar and more — do not neglect the Fourth of July tradition.
Curly’s Frozen Custard near the Cultural District will sponsor its eighth annual local version of the Nathan’s Famous Hot Dog-Eating Contest.
Registration begins at 10 a.m. July 4 for the noon contest. Prizes will be given in the 10-under, youth and 17-over age bracket.
While you’re at Curly’s, it’s Parker County peach custard season. (Try it mixed with blueberries or strawberries.)
Curly’s is at 4017 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-763-8700; curlysfrozencustard.com.
This story was originally published June 26, 2018 at 11:55 AM.