Eats Beat

In Arlington, the Fork in the Road leads to classic breakfast and biscuits

Arlington is a great biscuit town.

From the glory of Babe's Chicken Dinner House's sorghum biscuits to the billowy renditions in downhome diners, Arlington might be the biscuit capital of Texas.

Last year, a coffee bar's new bacon biscuits came along to wow the daily crowd.

But that was last year.

Meet the new champion: the biscuits at Fork in the Road.

Chef Josh Hopkins' Fielder Road sandwich shop has added breakfast hours (in place of dinner), and the biscuits are fluffy little balls of wonder.

The biscuit at Fork in the Road in Arlington.
The biscuit at Fork in the Road in Arlington. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

"It was getting harder to hire help at night," he said, repeating a familiar refrain.

(The openings at Texas Live! and the city's flimsy public transportation system are making hiring tough in Arlington.)

Fork in the Road is coming up on its fifth anniversary, and has staked a role as the go-to Arlington restaurant for chef-driven lunch items such as truffled, three-cheese "crack-aroni" or a thick Hedberg club sandwich, now sold as a grab-and-go take-out.

Hopkins said some customers are really upset that he switched to serving breakfast instead of dinner, but he's finding a new morning crowd.

Arlington loves breakfast. Large crowds and civic clubs gather at Division Street Diner, Good Day Cafe, Jay Jay Cafe, Main Street Cafe, Oldwest Cafe, the Pioneer Restaurant, Rise and Shine, Tom's Burgers and Grill, for those bacon-fat biscuits at Urban Alchemy Coffee & Wine Bar and at the soon-to-move Skillet N Grill, among many.

A bacon-egg-tomato-and-cheese sandwich at Fork in the Road in Arlington.
A bacon-egg-tomato-and-cheese sandwich at Fork in the Road in Arlington. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Eats Beat Ep. 147

DFW Restaurant Week


The "Forkin' " sandwich came with bacon, egg, cheddar and tomato on the same good sourdough as the lunch sandwiches.

But the star is definitely the biscuits, with or without housemade sausage gravy.

Fork in the Road is open Tuesday through Saturday for breakfast and lunch; 1821 .S. Fielder Road, 817-459-3675, facebook.com/ForkInTheRoadArlington.

A 40-year party for Fiesta Mexican

Not much has changed in 40 years at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant, and that's why it's lasted 40 years..

The corn and flour tortillas are still made by hand and served steaming in tortilla dishes. The old-school nachos are still spread separately across a plate, topped meticulously and warmed to a toasty finish.

A green enchilada lunch special with nachos at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant.
A green enchilada lunch special with nachos at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

One of the top sellers is still the beef enchilada plate, Anita Barriga said. But a new hit is the molcajete bowl, served steaming with a giant poblano.

Fiesta is working up to a June 29 anniversary party featuring Latin Express.

The specials next week: Tuesday night, $2.99 cheese enchilada dinner; Wednesday night, $3.99 beef or chicken enchilada dinner; June 28, $8.99 fajitas; June 29, free queso till 7 p.m., party with appetizers after 7; June 30, $5.99-$7.99 shrimp cocktails.

Chilaquiles verdes with salsa ranchera on the weekend breakfast menu at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant.
Chilaquiles verdes with salsa ranchera on the weekend breakfast menu at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Fiesta is open at 10 a.m. through dinner Tuesday through Friday, 8 a.m. through dinner weekends; 3233 Hemphill St., 817-923-6941, facebook.com/FiestaMexicanRestaurantTX.

A $2.35 Tommy's burger

Also celebrating an anniversary next week: Tommy's Hamburgers & Grill, which started 35 years ago in a gas station.

On Thursday, the original half-pound, hand-packed Tommy's burger will sell for $2.35, the original price.

That offer is good at all three Tommy's: Camp Bowie Boulevard, Forest Park Boulevard or near Ridgmar; tommyshamburgergrill.net.

Bud Kennedy, 817-390-7538; @EatsBeat

This story was originally published June 20, 2018 at 8:02 AM with the headline "In Arlington, the Fork in the Road leads to classic breakfast and biscuits."

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