Eats Beat

They were the best fajitas years ago. Now they're back, along with Saturday brunch

Homestyle fajitas, marinated along with pico, are a Wednesday special at La Familia.
Homestyle fajitas, marinated along with pico, are a Wednesday special at La Familia.

The First Family of Fajitas is back.

Thirty years after winning awards for the best fajitas in Dallas-Fort Worth, Gilbert Pedroza is serving them again, this time Wednesday nights at La Familia Restaurant in the Foch Street Warehouses.

When fajitas came to Dallas-Fort Worth and forever changed Tex-Mex, the Pedrozas had a little restaurant on North Main Street named La Palma that served some of the first and best.

Pedroza has worked recent years in food service but now also manages La Familia, still reorganizing after the turbulent 2015 departure of founder Al Cavazos.

“I never planned to do this again, but it's worked out this way and I want to bring La Familia back,” he said last week.

If Saturday brunch is any indication, La Familia is back.

Migas are served Saturdays at brunch at La Familia in Fort Worth. Bud Kennedy

A migas platter ($8.25) with bacon was true to the house recipe and came with an excellent salsa ranchero (along with the usual La Familiar table salsa).

La Familia opens at 9 a.m. every Saturday, and that's the best time to find a parking place in the busy West Seventh area.

The brunch menu also includes huevos rancheros, other breakfast dishes and chicken posole.

La Familia still serves its tradiitional fajitas but also offers Pedroza's family recipe Wednesday nights.

The homestyle “La Palma fajitas” ($14.95) are sliced thin and marinated for hours along with pico de gallo in his late mother Pilar's special-recipe sauce.

Then they're sauteed and served sizzling in a skillet, just like 30 years ago at La Palma.

If you've tried only mesquite-grilled fajitas or the more recent chain renditions, this is a different, juicy version.

Gilbert Pedroza, a fajitas pioneer at his former La Palma restaurant, is now at La Familia. Bud Kennedy

To tell you how long Pedroza's family has been around Fort Worth, his father, Felix, ran the old downtown Plaza Bar on Main Street and Felix Bar on Commerce Street in pre-Sundance days.

La Familia is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, brunch and dinner Saturday at 841 Foch St. (park in the spaces marked for Foch Street Warehouses, in front of and behind the shops); 817-870-2002,

Three Danes now open three days weekly

If you missed out on the Mother's Day tea at Three Danes Baking Company, don't miss out on morning pastries every weekend.

A Finsk brød (Finnish bread) Danish at the Three Danes Baking Company. Handout photo

Three Danes started as a Saturday-only bakeshop for a south Fort Worth bed-and-breakfast. It's now open Friday through Sunday, serving a stunning selection of galettes, macaroons, cookies, mini-pies and empanadas (“hand pies”).

Owner Darlene Marks and her Danish mother, Erna, bake the way Erna remembers from Denmark. The result is an artisan bakery with distinctive flavors, from the Danish wedding cookies to the cookies filled with local Moore's jam.

There's also a special Sunday tea about every couple of months.

Three Danes opens at 8 a.m. Fridays through Sundays, closing by early afternoon. It's at 712 May St., 817-690-8465,

Colonial brings out best in FW chefs

The foodie sponsor is gone, but some of Fort Worth's best chefs will cook for players at the Fort Worth Invitational pro golf tournament next week at Colonial Country Club.

Kansas-based gourmet food shop Dean & DeLuca backed out of a sponsorship, so Colonial will have its usual food concessions this year.

Making special appearances in the players' dining area:

Tuesday, Marcus Paslay (Clay Pigeon, Piattello)

Wednesday, Lanny Lancarte (Righteous Foods)

Thursday, Michael Thomson (Michaels Cuisine)

Friday, Jon Bonnell (Bonnell's, Waters)

Saturday, Molly McCook (Ellerbe Fine Foods)

Sunday, Travis Heim (Heim BBQ)

Bud Kennedy, 817-390-7538; @EatsBeat

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