Eats Beat

Those three sweet little words at Brewed in Fort Worth: biscuits all day

The Magnolia Chicken Biscuit with mixed regular and sweet-potato fries at Brewed.
The Magnolia Chicken Biscuit with mixed regular and sweet-potato fries at Brewed. bud@star-telegram.com

If biscuits are the new game, Brewed is ready to play.

Next-door neighbor Cane Rosso is now promoting biscuits at brunch, and new Clearfork restaurant Fixe Southern House is making friends with its meltaway “triple fat” dinner biscuits with Steen’s cane syrup.

In its sixth year as a Magnolia Avenue cafe-pub, Brewed counters with one of the few biscuits available all day: the Magnolia Chicken Biscuit, with two tenders on a fist-sized biscuit topped with bacon and thick provolone.

The Magnolia Biscuit is served all day, every day for $10 with regular or sweet-potato fries.

Brewed chef Chris Thompson’s most recent menu has increased the weekday breakfast business for dishes such as a pulled-pork hash skillet with avocado ($9.50), a chilaquiles skillet ($8) or chicken-and-waffles in sweet or savory mac-and-cheese-waffle varieties ($8-$11).

Of course, the biscuits come with a choice of jam, cheddar, sausage, bacon or chicken tenders.

If you want something else sweet in the morning, there’s always the regular dessert choices of Sweet Lucy’s Pies, Feastivities cakes or Gypsy Scoops ice cream.

Brewed is starting to make some state and national lists of Texas’ best breakfast restaurants, along with familiar favorites such as Oddfellows in Dallas and the Breakfast Klub in Houston.

But it also serves a simple lunch and dinner menu, featuring all-natural burgers, shrimp-and-grits, a Green Goddess wedge salad, candied-serrano cornbread and a triple grilled-cheese sandwich with provolone, cheddar and jalapeño-cheddar.

If you’ve never gone, it’s a charming gathering place with cozy rooms and bright sun from a south window.

Brewed is open for breakfast through dinner Tuesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. In other words, it’s open for hours after other nearby breakfast-lunch restaurants have closed; 801 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-945-1545, brewedfw.com.

Still waiting for Paris 7th

The much-awaited Paris 7th restaurant in the Cultural District won’t open by Valentine’s Day.

So cousin Saint-Emilion Restaurant will remain open through Valentine’s, and later if needed, until Paris 7th opens.

If you’ve missed word, Saint-Emilion owner Bernard Tronche bought the former Le Cep to convert to an urban Paris French restaurant, Paris 7th.

When it opens, much of Saint-Emilion’s menu will be served there, and the original Saint will take a break for repairs and updating, then reopen with the same country-French theme.

For now, Saint-Emilion continues regular dinner service nightly except Sunday at 3617 W. Seventh St.; 817-737-2781, saint-emilionrestaurant.com.

Watch for Paris 7th at 3324 W. Seventh St.

A pizza buffet for sweethearts

Although I can’t call it a Valentine’s fine-dining destination, the hearts-and-flowers decorations stay up all year at 50-year-old Parton’s Pizza in west Fort Worth.

Parton’s is a throwback to 1960s-70s cracker-crust pizza, served on a perpetually refreshed buffet.

The decor includes red heart-shaped chairs, red-and-white tablecloths and giant red hearts hanging over the old-timey salad bar.

Yes, Parton’s has been here since 1968 and hasn’t changed. But in west Fort Worth, that’s considered a good thing.

The buffet is served at lunch and dinner daily; 2813 Cherry Lane, 817-244-5152, facebook.com/partonspizza.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat.

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