Casanova’s passion rules the Kimbell, but the Buffet knows the way to our heart

The lusty 18th-century Italian lover Casanova seduces us to a new, for-mature-audiences Kimbell Art Museum exhibit.

But as always, it’s the Buffet at the Kimbell Art Museum that satisfies us.

One of the world’s most architecturally beautiful “lunch lines” is in high gear under new chef Peter Kreidler, with updates planned.

Crowds for the new exhibit on the life and times of the notorious Giacomo Casanova (1725-1798) might test the staff, particularly on weekends.

But at lunch Tuesday through Friday or at dinner on Friday nights, the Kimbell remains one of the best and most affordable restaurants in Fort Worth, either for a casual meeting or a family gathering.

Kreidler has made only tiny tweaks to the Buffet since he moved from Clay Pigeon and Swiss Pastry Shop to succeed founding chef Shelby Schafer, retired after 35 years.

The Friday dinner menu is more extensive now, offering past weekly specials such as pot roast or jambalaya (about $14) along with entree salads, quiche and the Buffet’s signature soups such as curried carrot vichyssoise or Hungarian mushroom-barley.

That menu will switch to Italian dinners for the first few Fridays in September, Kreidler said.

The lunch menu offers simple combos for $10-$12.50 with choices of soup, salad, quiche and/or a sandwich.

The soup at lunch one recent day definitely lived up to the Buffet’s tradition. Filled with black-eyed peas and sausage, it could have made a meal.

Combo choices one recent day included smoked turkey-basmati rice salad and a broccoli-cheese quiche.

Some diners just order a sandwich, and the special changes daily. On this day the special was a tuna-egg salad on Great Harvest Bread Co.’s Dakota bread.

The dessert of the day costs only $3. On this day, that seemed like a bargain for East Texas-style coconut-oatmeal pie.

Kreidler pointed out a few tiny changes, including the switch to Montana-based Great Harvest Bread, which also has bakery shops in Fort Worth and Southlake.

He’s already expanded the dinner choices, served Fridays from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m.. (Nearby Café Modern is open later.)

The Buffet is open by noon for lunch daily except Monday, and reopens for dinner Fridays. A second cafe in the Renzo Piano Pavilion opens by noon for lunch daily except Monday and serves lighter lunches and desserts until 4 p.m. most days, Fridays until 7 p.m.

The Kimbell is at 3333 Camp Bowie Blvd.; 817-332-8451, kimbellart.org/visit/dining.

Foodie movies and dinners at the Modern, from Cajun to paella

Tickets remain for both dining events at this weekend’s Film Feast, a foodies’ film festival at The Modern.

The event features classic food films such as “Big Night” and “Like Water for Chocolate.” One of the guest curators is SXSW co-founder Louis Black of Austin.

A kickoff cocktail reception Thursday ($99) features craft cocktails by seven local bartenders and six food stations offering Café Modern dishes to go with that night’s movies, “Garlic Is as Good as Ten Mothers” and “Yum, Yum, Yum! A Taste of Cajun and Creole Cooking.”

On Saturday night, a Café Modern paella party with the Michael Winterbottom movie “The Trip to Spain” ($79) includes both a Cornish game hen-pork “hunters’ paella” and a traditional Spanish seafood paella, plus an olive-artichoke salad and flan.

For more information, visit themodern.org/film-feast-2017 or call the museum, 817-738-9215, or Café Modern, 817-840-2157.

Café Modern is open for lunch or brunch Tuesdays through Sundays and for dinner Fridays, and for lectures or events; 3200 Darnell St., 817-840-2157, themodern.org.

Prime bulgogi? A new Korean grill brings the beef

A Sundance Square Korean restaurant will reopen this weekend after a quick changeover.

Hanu Korean Grill, featuring bulgogi, teriyaki chicken and dishes such as pork kimchi or tofu stews, is a remaking of the former HoYa.

Bulgogi, spicy grilled and glazed beef often compared to fajitas, is gaining fame as an Asian “barbecue.” Hanu also will offer prime brisket, rib-eye, marinated short rib and other meats cooked the Korean way.

Weekday lunch specials cost $9-$11. (Yes, Hanu still serves the bibimbap rice dishes.)

Hanu will serve lunch and dinner daily; 817-378-4045, hanukoreangrill.com.

This story was originally published August 26, 2017 at 3:07 PM with the headline "Casanova’s passion rules the Kimbell, but the Buffet knows the way to our heart."