Eats Beat

A new chicken mole at Frida’s, and prepare for the Peach Festival

The sliced chicken mole at Frida’s Mexican Flavors,which is on the Fort Worth-Haltom City border.
The sliced chicken mole at Frida’s Mexican Flavors,which is on the Fort Worth-Haltom City border. bud@star-telegram.com

Frida’s Mexican Flavors is tiny. The platters are simple and handmade.

If you want a loud Tex-Mex restaurant with 42 different combo platters and 18 kinds of margaritas, then Frida’s is not for you.

But if you seek out-of-the-way restaurants and taquerias with food that tastes like you’re on vacation in Morelia, Frida’s is a new place to try.

Edith Bueno’s little North Beach Street cafe has a menu far beyond the sparse setting.

Bueno’s house special is a chicken breast in her house recipe mole, brown and sweet but with a notable afterburn. It’s not like the mole at big-league Meso Maya or Revolver Taco Lounge, but it’s distinctive and represents a lot of work for a little restaurant.

Frida’s doesn’t stop there. The specialties include sea bass zarandeado (“shaken” in chile and lemon), spicy molcajete, genuine Baja-style chipotle fish tacos, beef in red chile and pork in green chile.

Burritos can be ordered “California-style” with french fries, pico and guacamole added. The menu also includes regular street tacos, Mexico-style enchiladas, handmade sopes and gorditas, daily soup specials and a $7.75 combo platter.

For dessert, there’s homemade chocoflan, regular flan or a fried plaintain with caramel.

There’s no wine or beer, but plenty of aguas frescas, bottled soft drinks, shakes and smoothies.

The breakfast menu has the same variety, with chilaquiles, cactus and eggs, burritos and sandwiches.

Frida’s opens at 9 a.m. for breakfast and serves through dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, and through lunch Sundays (closed Mondays); 3257 N. Beach St. at Fossil Drive, 817-862-9008.

McKinley’s upgrades

When you’re at the new Eatzi’s Market & Bakery or Bread Winners Cafe & Bakery in University Park Village, don’t forget the bakery that was there first.

McKinley’s Fine Bakery and Cafe is marking 16 years as the go-to bake shop on South University Drive.

While its new neighbors butt in on the bakery business, McKinley’s is adding more breakfast and lunch items.

McKinley’s will add roasted pork sandwiches, wraps and tacos to the menu this fall, along with new breakfast items. The lunch still features a signature chicken salad (with celery and grapes, since you asked) and specialties such as a cranberry-pecan salad with chicken breast and orange-honey dressing.

McKinley’s opened as a branch of Dallas’ Celebrity Bakery and has continued the traditions of specialty cookies, muffins, layer cakes and pies.

It’s open for breakfast, lunch and early dinner daily and Saturdays, breakfast and lunch Sundays; 1616 S. University Drive, 817-332-3242, mckinleysbakery.com.

Peaches and more peaches

The Parker County Peach Festival is Saturday, which means in one day you can dine on peach cake, peach cupcakes, peach jam, peach cobbler, peach pie and, of course, peach ice cream.

That’s not even including all the peach specials at Weatherford restaurants, such as peach frappés and peach pancakes at Short Chef’s Coffee House & Bistro on the square.

Fire Oak Grill, the upscale restaurant on the courthouse square, will serve lunch and dinner Saturday for festivalgoers.

The popular Back Home Bakery is scheduled to be open at 10 a.m. in its new location near the square, 122 N. Main St.; 817-594-4003, facebook.com/backhomebakerytx.

If you miss the festival, Baker’s Ribs and the Original Fried Pie Co. sell peach fried pies beginning at 9 a.m. daily at the Weatherford location, 1921 S. Main St.; 817-599-4229, bakersribs.com.

The festival itself opens at 8 a.m. Saturday. Go early; it’s west of the courthouse along and north of Palo Pinto Street, but the parking is at 1007 S. Main St. or 225 College Park Drive, admission $5, parkercountypeachfestival.org.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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