Eats Beat

Flight ready for lake season with prime steaks, breakfasts

Tilapia tarragon at Flight on Eagle Mountain Lake.
Tilapia tarragon at Flight on Eagle Mountain Lake. Courtesy photo

Good weather means good business for restaurants on Eagle Mountain Lake, ready for spring holidays and more warm sunshine.

Flight on Eagle Mountain Lake has updated its menu for its third season at Harbor One Marina, where so many sailors and skiers come in wearing swimsuits that T-shirts say “They made me put clothes on at Flight.”

Flight, a lakefront restaurant with a fishing-lodge feel, now serves only prime rib-eyes and sirloins, owner David Bryant said. The $24-$38 steaks include a side dish such as the andouille mac-and-cheese or bacon Brussels sprouts.

Flight’s menu features Louisiana gumbo, etoufee or barbecued shrimp, along with all-you-can-eat fried shrimp platters Mondays or catfish Thursdays.

Bryant said he has continued to adjust the spice level — up. A popular entree is crawfish-stuffed jalapeños, and the onion rings or fried panko-dusted avocado slices come with a Sriracha-ranch dressing.

(“Flight” refers to the restaurant’s sampler platter offering four smaller portions of any entree.)

Sunday’s brunch crowd is busy and dines early. A brunch buffet offers an omelet station, eggs and breakfast items for $14.

Flight has completed some upgrades on the 40-year-old restaurant, formerly Harbor One. Bryant said cabanas are planned outside along the lakefront deck, along with an upper deck for the cigar lounge.

“It’s about to get crazy busy out here,” Bryant said, referring not only to the onset of lake season but also to the population growth nearby.

Flight is open daily for lunch and dinner, and at 10 a.m. Sundays for brunch. It’s 6 miles west of Saginaw or 7 miles north of Loop 820; 9307 Boat Club Road (Farm Road 1220), 817-882-6910, flightonthelake.com.

Caliente tacos

Nearby, Mama’s Caliente Kitchen also does a busy breakfast business both Saturdays and Sundays, and opens at 10:30 a.m. weekdays to catch an early lunch crowd.

Mama’s doesn’t have a lakefront view, but it does have a pretty hillside, a smoker for barbecue platters and two kinds of smoked-brisket street tacos.

Mama’s serves 15 varieties of tacos in all, made with everything from rib-eye to marinated salmon. The “J.D. Woody” brisket tacos add roasted corn salsa, lettuce, house barbecue sauce and jalapeño queso.

Mama’s also serves seven kinds of enchiladas and seven burgers, including a “Bandit” half-pound charbroiled burger with brisket, guacamole and white cheddar.

Weekend breakfasts include migas, chilaquiles or white-chocolate banana pancakes, plus regular bacon-and-egg platters.

Mama’s is open for lunch and dinner weekdays, breakfast through dinner weekends at 9120 Boat Club Road; 817-708-2876, mamascalientekitchen.com.

Coyote Augie

Augie’s Sunset Cafe & Marina definitely does not offer high-end dining.

But if you like a burger or sandwich served in a 70-year-old dive bar on the water with absolutely no atmosphere but a great sunset view, Augie’s is your place.

Augie’s looks rough, but the kitchen can surprise. It’s known around the lake for BLT sandwiches on sourdough stacked high with bacon, topped with a perfect lettuce leaf and wrapped tight in paper like in old-time diners.

The burgers are traditional, too, and don’t miss the onion strings.

Augie’s also serves a credible catfish basket with jalapeño hushpuppies.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily; 6172 Park Road, 817-237-5868, augies.sunset.cafe.tripod.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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