Eats Beat

Italy comes to Colleyville, and an Asian bistro is next in line

Housemade meatballs at Loveria Caffe in Town Center Colleyville.
Housemade meatballs at Loveria Caffe in Town Center Colleyville.

The new Loveria Caffe Taste of Italy is open, and a second might not be far behind.

Architects and a chef from Ravenna, Italy, have brought Texas a finely crafted turn on authentic northern Italian dining and coffees, and the result is a classy yet comfortable restaurant with appeal far beyond Colleyville.

As if to prove everything is homemade, at one point during opening weekend, Loveria ran out of pasta.

Chef Michele Ragazzini’s lunch and dinner menus are inventive but familiar. The top sellers on opening weekend were a simple lasagna Bolognese with spinach pasta ($16), or a cappelletti (tortellini) al ragù ($16).

Entrees include pastas with basil, garlic and pine nuts; spaghetti; stufato (beef tips); pork scallopine or meatballs, all $15-$20. They all start with foccacia with olive oil and a distinctive blueberry-pomegranate vinegar.

For dessert, there’s a genuine tiramisù, cookies, a ricotta crostata or gelato with espresso cream. Loveria also serves its own coffees and espressos.

Architects Stefania Bartozzi and Andrea Martucci designed a sleek restaurant with furnishings from Milan. It’s handsome but not heavy-handed, an easy place to stop for a dinner out or for midday coffee and tiramisù.

Bartozzi said the partners already are considering a second location in Southlake and hope to bring the concept and coffees to other locations.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily except Mondays in Town Center Colleyville; 5615 Colleyville Blvd. (at Hall-Johnson Road), 817-932-2771, loveriacaffe.com.

‘Chef Eddy’ returns

A few blocks south, Sai Fine Asian Bistro will quietly make its debut next month.

It’s a new Thai and Chinese restaurant by noted “Chef Eddy” Thretipthuangsin, praised for his work and creative cocktails at Pakpao Thai in Dallas and Kin Kin Urban Thai in Fort Worth.

A peek at Sai Fine Asian’s menu showed familiar Chef Eddy dishes, including duck.

The former Citrus Bistro has been redecorated with splashy Asian decor. It’s the most handsome Eddy restaurant yet: Watch for the opening at 5005 Colleyville Blvd. (at Glade Road).

$5 Akaushi burgers

Also in Colleyville: Dallas Craft Co., a new taphouse and sports grill with a better-than-expected menu.

The best deal at Dallas Craft is the juicy Akaushi beef burger on a choice of buns, only $5 with fries on Mondays ($8 other days).

Dallas Craft’s novelty menu offers everything from short-rib or corned-beef wraps called “sushi” to steaks, pork chops, sandwiches and all-day, all-week brunch (banana-bread French toast, chicken-and-waffles).

Weekday lunch specials are $6.65. This concept is a second try in the former Mac’s location, but might make it; 5120 Texas 121, 682-738-3666, dallascraftco.com.

Barbecue in Keller

Keller’s Old Town restaurant row has yet another new barbecue shop.

Roscoe’s Smokehouse, popular in Burleson, is the latest to open in the barbecue location (next to blockbuster new breakfast shop Seven Mile Cafe).

Last Sunday, while Seven Mile diners lined up for tofu migas or gluten-free berry pancakes, a few old-school barbecue diners came for Roscoe’s Moo-Oink-En platter of pork ribs, slices of tender beef brisket, pulled pork and sausage ($14.99).

Interesting menu items: a smoked burger ($9.99 with fries), brisket or sausage tacos ($3.50-$4) or a smoked chicken club ($9.99).

Roscoe’s is open for lunch or dinner daily at 134 S. Main St., 682-593-7799, roscoessmokehouse.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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