Lockhart Smokehouse is a highlight of Texas Live! — and it’s just getting started

The Star-Telegram checked out every restaurant at Texas Live! Read other reviews here.

Owned by a granddaughter from the Schmidt family, which made Kreuz Market a success in the city of Lockhart south of Austin, Lockhart Smokehouse has been a hit in Dallas’ Bishop Arts District and at a second location in Plano. This first Tarrant County location has been getting some mixed online reviews, but with a little time it should catch its groove and be on a level with the others. And we were pretty pleased with what we had.

Accompanied by former Star-Telegram staffer Malcolm Mayhew, who has contributed a lot of barbecue stories to the Star-Telegram, Fort Worth magazine and elsewhere, I was advised to ask for the fatty brisket, which you order by weight. Brisket is $19.98 a pound; we ordered quarter-pounds but in both cases got served nearly a half-pound (and that was reflected in the bill). Seasoning was uneven — peppery in some places, almost nonexistent in others — but the beef had a good smoky flavor, and the fattiest portions were, pardon the cliche, melt-in-your-mouth perfect.

Lockhart is known for its sausage, and a link of the Kreuz Market-inspired original ($5 a link) had just enough chew and snap, giving way to a soft, spicy interior. The jalapeño sausage ($5.25) was also good, but the original has a good dose of heat all its own. Sides (blue cheese slaw, $2.50; small potato salad, $2.50; small mac-n-cheese, $4) were all good, with the mac-and-cheese the highlight A small peach cobbler ($3.50) capped the meal nicely.

You can run up a bill quickly here: For two of us, it was more than $51 after tax.