A place like Edelweiss; it’s about the memories more than the schnitzel. It’s about the warmth of the accordion accompaniment to your dinner more than the steamy sausages.
And as of Saturday, it will have been that way for 50 years.
If you haven’t ever been led in an “oompah” or a “Chicken Dance” at the muted but welcoming old structure that has stood on the Benbrook Traffic Circle since 1967, the return of Bernd Schnerzinger, the 75-year-old original owner who has continued to lead polkas on the restaurant’s stage even after relinquishing ownership, is as good an excuse as any.
The occasion, perhaps like any other occasion shared at the Fort Worth staple by regular and one-time visitors alike, won’t insist upon itself for promotion’s sake. All current owner Kenny Zeqiri said he had in store for patrons on Saturday was “good food and music and dancing,” like so many other Saturday nights across the last 50 years.
Making it 50 years in Fort Worth puts Edelweiss among the 20 oldest restaurants in Fort Worth, behind notables like Paris Coffee Shop (91 years), Risky’s (90), Carshon’s Deli (89), Bailey’s Barbecue (86), Joe T. Garcia’s (82), Kincaid’s (71), Cattlemen’s Steak House (70), Angelo’s Bar-B-Q (59), and Ol’ South Pancake House (55).
Matthew Martinez: 817-390-7667; @MCTinez817