Colorado’s guest ranches soothe tired dudes
Last night I awoke to appalling sounds — police sirens, the milk truck barreling down the street with my dog barking after him and revving motorcycles.
What a difference from the serenity and stillness of the three days my family had just enjoyed at the North Fork Guest Ranch, just one hour from our home in Denver.
There, nights consisted of inky skies glittering with stars, aspen leaves rustling gently and cool mountain air snuggling us into the soft blankets. The only sound was a whinny or two from the horses in the pasture below.
It truly was paradise.
Guest, or dude, ranches have been around for 100 years or so, when real working ranchers first realized what a lure the cowboy lifestyle was for us regular folks. The attraction of the Old West is just as, if not more, enticing nowadays, with many of us city and suburb dwellers so far removed from country life and its pleasures.
Today’s ranches help visitors experience the romance, adventure and spirit of the Old West without giving up the basic creature comforts of home (in fact, the ranches typically boast BETTER creature comforts than home).
Dude ranches are all about the riding, but the Colorado ranches we’ve listed here offer many other activities and programs as well, as do the dozens of other ranches around the U.S.
Most are priced as weekly stays with a complete package that includes lodging, horseback riding with instruction and three meals daily, while many offer children’s programs as well. You’ll be entranced by hillsides blooming with fluorescent orange Indian paintbrushes, purple and white columbines, purple and pink locoweed, daisies, blue bells and more — nestled among lush ferns and dense vegetation.
Check for minimum stays, children’s policies and programs, accommodation classes, type of cuisine, tipping policy, alcohol policy, additional offerings, campout nights and nightly entertainment — that’s where ranches differ most.
Bar Lazy J Guest Ranch
When I arrived at the Bar Lazy J Guest Ranch, I felt at home right away. This mid-priced ranch is designed for conviviality, and indeed, most of its guests return year after year.
Located in Parshall, Colo., at an elevation of 7,500 feet, directly on an unusually lush green valley alongside the Colorado River, the Bar Lazy J is considered the oldest continuously operating guest ranch in the state, entering its 100th year this summer. This ranch is cozy, intimate and personal, with just12 log cabins, all with screened porches.
What makes it special, over and above its spectacular setting, are its warm and relaxed owners, who followed their dream from the upper Midwest and bought the ranch 20 years ago. They take pride in making sure each guest finds his or her niche here, whether it’s riding, catch-and-release Gold Medal fly-fishing, rod and reel fishing in the stocked pond, swimming in the large heated pool, soaking in the hot tub, trap shooting, team penning with cows, reading from the extensive library, mountain biking or simply relaxing.
The Colorado River zip line, for age 13 and older, is an unusual ranch feature. At 1,500 feet in length, this is one of Colorado’s longest and fastest zip lines. The zip line starts on a steep bluff, dropping 82 feet in elevation as it crosses the river, and goes through the trees and across a pasture to the landing platform.
Bar Lazy J’s meals are family-style, with such entrees as grilled salmon, buffalo, prime rib and Cornish hens as regular dinner items. Lemonade, coffee, tea, fruit and fresh cookies are always available. Capacity at the Bar Lazy J is just 42, so you’ll get to know everyone, or at least their faces, by the time you leave.
The ranch offers six weeks of adults-only visits (including all of September). There is a 10 percent discount and a three-night minimum stay during this time as well.
800-396-6279 or 970-725-3437; www.barlazyj.com
4UR Ranch
At the 4UR Ranch seven miles from Creede in south-central Colorado, we were delightfully spoiled. Sure, it’s rustic and cowboyish at the barn, but it’s oh-so-pampering in the cabins and lodge.
The 4UR is surrounded by national forests (one with 1 million acres). The La Garita range is to the north, and to the south and west sit the massive peaks of the Weminuche Wilderness and Wolf Creek Pass. Nearby is Wheeler National Monument, with its striking rock formation “hoodoos.”
Also nearby are the headwaters of the Rio Grande, which starts its long journey as a trickle in the mountains to the west of the ranch.
This ranch takes pride in providing every luxury to its guests, from its beautifully appointed lodging to its world-class acclaimed dining, headed by Le Cordon Bleu-trained executive chef Wray Warner.
The 4UR is a catch-and-release fly-fishing ranch, first and foremost, with more than 100 years of history behind it, but its horseback program (based on the natural horsemanship philosophy and run by head wrangler Damon Gibbons for 16 years running) is outstanding.
The 4UR has more than 3,000 acres of gorgeous terrain, as well as the source of the Wagon Wheel Gap Hot Springs. Indeed, the ranch historically began as a posh hot springs resort, but now the springs are sent to a large hot tub pool.
Fly-fishing is on Goose Creek and on the Rio Grande, with abundant brown, rainbow and cutthroat on six miles of private tailwater (guides are not mandatory but are available for an extra charge). Each of the 19 fishing stations is one-third to a half-mile long.
During less busy weeks, the 4UR does allow three-night packages. The Leavell family has owned and operated the ranch for more than 40 years, and Lindsey and Pete take great pride in meeting and knowing their many longtime guests. Lindsey is an accomplished painter and her work is displayed throughout the ranch.
North Fork Ranch
North Fork Ranch is just past the tiny town of Shawnee and, incredibly, is just one hour from central Denver (only a tad more from the airport). Besides that convenience, this Orvis-endorsed ranch permits stays of just one night, although it encourages full weeks.
Set smack on the North Fork of the South Platte River, the ranch enjoys delightful rushing river sounds and wild rose-scented breezes, as well as superb fly-fishing — hence, the Orvis endorsement. Owned and operated for the past 30 years by Karen and Dean May, North Fork is a very friendly, low-key ranch.
The dining is delicious, but free of pretension — you’ll have a Mexican buffet on the patio overlooking the river, or an Italian-themed evening (caprese salad, pesto focaccia, roasted glazed chicken and pasta, panna cotta for dessert). And tempting fresh-baked cookies are always in the cookie jar, as well as a bowl of fruit, trail mix and other goodies.
The river’s flow, along with water from a nearby tunnel, creates a unique private fishery, teeming with brown, rainbow and cutthroat trout, sometimes more than 10 pounds in size, but more typically about 3 pounds.
The half-mile of North Fork Ranch river is fly-fishing only with barbless hooks, and catch and release. North Fork guests can also fish other private properties on the North Fork within five to 10 minutes of the ranch, including the legendary Boxwood Gulch Ranch, Long Meadow Ranch and Rowdy Trout Ranch.
Fly-fishing casting classes are held on the stocked trout pond, which is open to spin fishing for ranch guests at no charge.
The small petting zoo has a mama sheep and her youngsters, some skittish hens and an adorable miniature donkey. We fell in love with a very affectionate mule that delighted in having his ears rubbed. The ranch does not offer a supervised children’s program, but kids love the “zoo” and there are many kid-oriented activities, as well as a large swimming pool.
Accommodations are cushy, comfy and Western-themed, with Mexican and Southwest art. For a special treat, reserve the Stonehenge Lodge — a gorgeous 85-year-old stone house with endless rustic elegance.
Sundance Trail Guest Ranch
Sundance Trail Guest Ranch in Red Feather Lakes, Colo., has its own unique appeal.
A small, cozy ranch with just four tables in the dining room seating 24 maximum, Sundance Trail is very relaxed, friendly and flexible — catering to special diets, needs and requests.
The ranch is one of the smallest in Colorado and is open year-round, with the owners living on premises. Speaking of the owners, they’re delightful folks. Ellen and Dan are hands-on, helping with just about everything — from cooking and cleaning rooms, to teaching horsemanship and leading rides — and philosophizing
Just about anyone would feel comfortable here — including vegans, diabetics and Buddhists, who might want to visit the fascinating Shambala retreat center just six miles up the road. Indeed, Dan used to teach meditation classes there, and you might be lucky enough to have him give you a tour.
Ellen and Dan welcome guests to bring their dogs, another rare treat among ranches, and your dog will forever thank you for the experience to run free with new friends.
You can even bring your own horse — many people do!
Sundance Trail permits weekend stays in the nonsummer months, late September through mid-May. There are also three-day, four-night packages available, and nonriders enjoy a 15 percent discount on their stays.
The ranch offers, at no extra charge, “Murder Mystery Weekends” in the off-season. For groups of eight to 12 or more, the ranch provides the script and instructions for complete mystery plays, and will advise in advance what costumes and supplies each person should bring. All Murder Mystery packages include lodging, meals, and daily horseback ride (weather permitting). There is even one scheduled for New Year’s Eve.
Sundance Trail borders a million acres of national forest to ride in, explore and hike.
Or consider any or all of these activities — skeet shooting, rock climbing, belaying, disc golf, horseshoes, archery, foosball, billiards, Jacuzzi soaks, tomahawk throwing, mountain biking (yes, the ranch has plenty of bikes for you to use), and whitewater rafting.
Riding groups are kept small, and rides can be customized to the needs and desires of the group. Sundance judges maturity and attitude, weight, height, etc., to determine whether children can ride. The ranch is opposed to “nose-to-tail” rides.
Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch
This year-round ranch is one of the oldest working horse and cattle ranches in the state, dating to the 1920s.
Just 90 minutes from Denver International Airport (with Super Shuttle service available) and seven miles west of Loveland, the ranch is about 30 minutes east of Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park.
Just one of Sylvan Dale’s perks for out-of-state folks is its altitude — just 5,280 feet, same as Denver. Surrounded by the dramatically beautiful red rock cliffs of Eagle Ridge, it is somewhat reminiscent of Sedona, Ariz. Sagebrush, cactus and other vegetation make for wooded mountain trails.
The 3,200-acre Sylvan Dale has the Big Thompson River running through the property. It suffered heavy losses in the floods of 2013, but it has strongly recovered, with new construction and loyal clients returning.
There is plenty of wildlife in the area — in just three days, we saw a black bear on the hillside, a blue heron flying over our heads, several mule deer, endless bunnies and a few adorable toads.
Susan and Dave Jessup, the friendly owners, share the passion of Susan’s parents, who bought the ranch in 1946 “on a shoestring, but invested their heart and soul,” as Susan says. The Jessups are highly regarded among other Colorado dude ranches — they’ve dedicated themselves to improving and promoting dude ranches, and it shows.
Sylvan Dale is proud of its cattle program, raising its own 100 percent grass-fed cows with no hormones, steroids, antibiotics or GMOs. Beef is available for purchase.
The meals at Sylvan Dale are hearty affairs, with such entrees as barbecue beef and chicken, meatloaf, and breaded tilapia, and there is always a salad bar. The weekly breakfast ride is popular, as is campout night (either under the stars or in a rustic cabin at the site.)
Sylvan Dale offers a “Bunk” & Breakfast three-night stay during the off-season at a heavily discounted rate, and offers other special programs as well.
Upon our arrival for an Adults-Only Week in August, we were delighted to find the ranch’s herd of horses running free in the large pasture, the foothills of the Rockies looming behind them.
The first night, we celebrated our new friends with an ice cream social, and another night, we were excited to all share in cranking out our own ice cream the old-fashioned way, with rock salt — then ladled it over ripe Colorado Palisades peaches.
Activities other than horseback riding are offered. They include fly-fishing and rod and reel fishing in the stocked bass pond (about two miles away,) tennis, swimming in the heated pool, volleyball, pingpong and other games, horseshoes, team penning and cattle roundups, and yoga.
For those who want a ranch with easy access to nearby attractions, Sylvan Dale is the place — just 15 minutes to the urban amenities of Loveland.
Vista Verde
After 20 minutes or so down a winding, two-lane country road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, you arrive. The Vista Verde sign indicated you finally “home” at the ranch, a luxury setup with magnificent horses, delicious aromas of leather, hay and sweet equine sweat, and folks gussied up in Western apparel.
Vista Verde offers that Western experience, yes, but it’s tailored for those who also want to be “on vacation” with all of the amenities. You won’t be roughing it here.
Just outside of Steamboat Springs, a bit past tiny Clark, Vista Verde is a three-hour drive from Denver. It’s one of Colorado’s handful of upscale guest ranches, and it offers truly gourmet cuisine and fine wines, sumptuous accommodations (think gorgeous log homes), and meticulous customer service.
You get the dude ranch experience but in a supremely pampering way. Yet, Vista Verde’s lack of pretension makes all the luxuries feel natural and cozy. You’ll want to settle in here and stay, and you’ll feel like you belong.
Vista Verde is also one of a few ranches open in the winter. Even in late March, there is abundant, deep, powdery snow — so much that the ranch has to plow out a path for the horses.
The log homes for guests surround the snowy meadow used for winter horseback riding (too much snow for free riding in the surrounding national forest) and for Nordic skiing.
Vista Verde sports beautiful design materials throughout — stone, slate, wood, pottery and earth-tone fabrics that delight the senses and relax the mind. The great room is where you’ll partake of the nightly “happy half hour” before dinner, with amuse-bouches worthy of any top restaurant along with wine and beer.
Romantic winter getaways are found here, too, with each large log cabin having a private porch hot tub, a stocked fridge with wine, beer, soft drinks and juices, and a roaring fireplace.
After an invigorating afternoon of snowshoeing, skiing or horseback riding, snuggle and prepare for the evening’s culinary delights, or take in a wine-tasting, photography or cooking class. If you’re not into cold weather, you can always ride in the ranch’s new full-sized, heated indoor riding arena.
You can enjoy backcountry Nordic skiing and telemarking, with full equipment included. The terrain at Vista Verde gets plenty of snow and affords spectacular scenery as well as tranquility.
You can also snowshoe, skate ski, or do classic track skiing if you choose, and again, all equipment and instruction are included.
Just into some no-skill-required fun? The ranch hands will take you up the hill on the snowmobile and you can whisk down in a snow tube, over and over until you and your rear are tired. Another special perk of Vista Verde is its proximity to world-class downhill skiing at Steamboat Springs, just 30 or so minutes away.
The ranch’s unusual B&B stays, or as they quip, their BL&D stays (breakfast, lunch and dinner), include meals and on-your-own activities. Guests are on their own to just enjoy their cabins, hot tubs, ski and snowshoe trails, and the views.
There are also evening programs. Some ranch activities are available at an extra charge.
There is nothing like hearing the horses being saddled to rouse you up out of the blankets — and when you smell that coffee brewing, it just gets better.
Dude ranches have something for just about everyone — surprise yourself and try one, and you just may find a new regular vacation getaway you never knew you’d love.
Exploring Creede
This reborn mining “ghost town” in the San Juan Mountains of south-central Colorado is a vibrant, artsy, creative, tiny-but-full community with many artisan shops, an excellent music store with listening room, fine art galleries, restaurants and the renowned Creede Repertory Theatre, which celebrated its 50th year in 2015.
Creede was the site of the American West’s last great silver strike in the late 1800s, and its colorful history includes some of the most famous names of the frontier, such as Bat Masterson and Soapy Smith. More recently, Creede was awarded the 2010 Governor’s Arts Award in Colorado.
The dramatically beautiful Bachelor’s Loop drive takes you high up where the mines once were, now abandoned but with their weathered, dilapidated wood frame entrances still there, surrounded by copper-pink cliffs and lush groves of aspens.
Texans have been coming to this area since the 1880s, following the Rio Grande to its source, and to this day, the majority of cars here have Texas plates. The area has excellent fishing, which is a big part of Creede’s allure.
This story was originally published July 13, 2016 at 11:07 AM with the headline "Colorado’s guest ranches soothe tired dudes."