Travel

An inspiring stay in the North Carolina High Country

Grandfather Mountain’s Mile High Swinging Bridge hangs 5,280 feet above sea level between two of the mountain’s rocky peaks.
Grandfather Mountain’s Mile High Swinging Bridge hangs 5,280 feet above sea level between two of the mountain’s rocky peaks. Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation

In the North Carolina High Country, a mountainous region in the state’s northwest corner, a large artist community thrives on the area’s lush flora and fauna for inspiration.

The tree-covered territory is made up of six counties and scattered with popular small-town destinations like Linville, Banner Elk and Boone. From watercolor painters and weavers to oil painters and potters, the abundance of local talent here is evidenced by the number of art galleries, artist studios, art classes and art schools in the area.

At the center of it all is Grandfather Mountain, the rocky patriarch of the region revered for its majestic beauty.

During my stay in Linville, N.C., late last summer, I hiked “Grandfather,” as the locals refer to the mountain, which is named for its famous stone feature that resembles a human facial profile from afar. .

Like most Grandfather hikers, I made it all the way to the Mile High Swinging Bridge, the highest suspension footbridge in America, named for its tendency to sway in high winds. Made of galvanized steel cables, floor boards and side rails, the bridge hangs 5,280 feet above sea level between two of Grandfather’s rocky peaks. The mountain itself stands at nearly 6,000 feet and is the highest peak in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

When you go up there, you will see just how unbelievable the view is.

Lesley Platek

volunteer coordinator at

“When you go up there, you will see just how unbelievable the view is,” said Lesley Platek, my hiking guide and the volunteer coordinator at the Grandfather Mountain State Park.

Through the mid-morning fog, vibrant green tree tops were visible as far as I could see. The foliage would change to shades of bright orange, red, yellow and even fuchsia in the fall, I was told, and I could only imagine what wondrous works the colors would inspire from the local artist community.

The mountain also provides a native setting for black bears, bald eagles, river otters and even cougars. Guests are likely to spot squirrels, songbirds and other forest animals.

Each July, the mountain hosts its own elaborate version of Scotland’s highland games. Brawny athletes, bagpipe parades, Celtic music and Gaelic culture are celebrated in one of the largest renditions of the Scottish tradition in the United States, which this year will be July 7-10 (www.gmhg.org/events.htm).

Artists and artisans

Back at street level, the winding highways of the High Country are a virtual road map for galleries and art studios. But Crossnore Weavers, inside the Crossnore Mountains of Hope School in the quaint town of Crossnore, is a must-stop not only for luxe, vividly colored, hand-woven garments, but for the mission behind the masterpieces.

Serving as a nonprofit residential foster home for North Carolina children in crisis, the Crossnore School was founded in 1913 and lies on 85 acres as a sanctuary of hope and comfort for those it serves.

Amid the grounds sits a fine arts gallery representing regional painters, sculptors and craftspeople; the Blair Fraley Thrift Store, the largest resale shop in the High Country, which has built a reputation for designer brands donated by wealthy residents; and Miracle Grounds Coffee Shop and Cafe, which offers breakfast and lunch specials, teas and fair-trade coffee roasted in nearby Boone.

The weaving studio, which sits in a two-and-a-half story rustic, revival-style building called the Homespun House, is considered a working museum. The structure was built in 1936 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Inside, nearly a dozen weavers from ages 17 to 70 work on 30 looms to weave elaborate stoles, shrugs, ponchos, scarves and wraps that are sold for $60-$400.

Table runners, placemats, tea towels and pillow covers are also created, and all from various materials including cotton, rayon and alpaca. Weavers are paid by the piece and proceeds directly benefit the nonprofit.

I was mesmerized by the countless colorful yarns intersecting systematically with each loud “beat,” or pushing and pulling of the loom that sounded like wood slamming on wood.

I walked across the building’s creaky floors and ran my fingers across many scarves and shawls before deciding on an emerald scarf for myself and an indigo one for my mother. Fledgling weavers can attend Crossnore’s weeklong weaving school, held twice a year in June and November.

Banner Elk, a mountain community between Linville and Boone, is home to the 30-year-old Carlton Gallery, one of the most established galleries in North Carolina.

Owned by artist Toni Carlton, the two-story showroom features fine art and handmade crafts by nearly 200 regional artists. Blown glass, designer jewelry and original paintings in oil, watercolor, acrylic and mixed media are on display for viewing or purchase.

Here I found must-have stud earring made from glass that shimmered in shades of rose gold and black. Carlton uses calligraphy, symbols, text and photographic images in her own works, and hosts weekly workshops and monthly gallery crawls.

“There are a lot of artists that live here and many artists from Florida that have second homes here,” Carlton said.

“You’ll see artists outside on the mountainside just painting. The place in general has a real calming feeling. It brings you to a restful place by living here. I try to offer that in my work.”

Country club accommodations

That restful, calming feeling is what inspired renowned New Orleans-based artist Lory Lockwood to purchase a home inside the Grandfather Golf & Country Club residential community. It was the club’s 3,500-square-foot, second-story art loft — a spacious, open room filled with easels, paints and materials galore for which to create — that sealed the deal.

“I needed to find a place that I could work,” Lockwood said when I visited with her in the loft just before the club’s annual art exhibition and gala. “My husband and I looked around to find a studio space to rent. But this is just different.

“People are working together. That normally doesn’t happen with artists. I’ve never seen anything like this. This is an amenity that no other club has. You can come in and start any kind of painting you want to.”

While Lockwood makes a living selling her detailed oil paintings, which primarily highlight shiny chrome fixtures on automobiles and motorcycles and the reflections they reveal, novice artists who partake as a hobby can utilize the loft just the same.

“It’s very green around here,” said Grandfather Club member and leisurely artist Betsy Gefaell. “This is a marvelous escape.”

Nearly 100 members participate in art programs at the club, and weekly art history lectures are led by an artist-in-residence. Attendees often include nonartists looking to learn something new.

I tinkered with paints and canvases during my stay, but wished I had more time to really indulge in the various brushes, pencils, palettes and tubes of color that were available.

Instead, I spent time basking in the warm North Carolina sun at the club’s own private beach, which sits alongside the club’s 30-acre private mountain lake. The 75-degree temperatures were a pleasant respite from the sizzling August heat at home.

Beachfront scenery with mountain views — it was the best of both worlds.

I also partook in an invigorating guided hike along Boulder Peak Trail, a 1  1/2 -mile, well-shaded journey flanked by towering trees and boulders big enough to climb, located within the club’s premises. This was after a rejuvenating yoga class at the community’s fitness center. (A new 7,000-square-foot fitness facility is set to open by Memorial Day weekend.)

Another perk of staying at the nearly 50-year-old country club, home to 400 members, is the opportunity to play on one of the best golf courses in the South.

Designed by famed course architect Ellis Maples, the club’s Championship Course features 7,010 yards and unique holes designed to flow seamlessly. Each hole is concealed from the next by screens of bright pink rhododendron and tall hemlock trees. The course has earned many accolades for its natural terrain and striking mountain views.

In the mountain lodge-inspired dining rooms, I indulged in executive chef J. Kevin Walker’s regional cuisine, including seared trout over succotash, compressed watermelon and heirloom tomato salad.

“It’s food done simply, and we try to focus on local ingredients and do as much as possible in-house,” Walker told me.

Other club amenities include indoor and outdoor tennis courts, croquet, water sports, bass and trout fishing.

Vacationers and second home owners primarily come from Florida, Tennessee, Louisiana and Texas to escape sweltering temperatures. But anyone can visit as part of the club’s discovery visit package, a three-day, two-night deal with deluxe accommodations that includes one round of golf plus access to all club amenities.

Real estate opportunities include condos ranging from 900 to 2,600 square feet and single-family homes, each nestled in forest foliage, up to 7,100 square feet.

But even if I don’t purchase a forever home in the High Country, the region’s peaceful pace, uplifting surroundings and creative inspiration will no doubt draw me back.

But next time, exploring my own artistic ability will be on the itinerary.

If you go

Getting there: The North Carolina High Country includes the towns of Boone, Linville, Banner Elk, Blowing Rock and many other small Northwest North Carolina communities. The region is about a two-hour drive from Charlotte.

Where to stay:

  • Grandfather Golf & Country Club, 2120 U.S. 105 S, Linville, N.C. 828-898-4531, www.grandfatherclubnc.com. The country club offers a three day, two-night discovery visit package for $725-$850 per couple. The stay includes one round of golf plus access to all club amenities and charging privileges via a temporary guest account. (Children under 18 receive complimentary lodging.)

What to do:

  • Grandfather Mountain, U.S. 221 & Blue Ridge Parkway, Linville, N.C., 800-468-7325, www.grandfather.com. Grandfather Mountain is open every day, weather permitting, except Thanksgiving and Christmas.
  • Crossnore Weavers at the Crossnore Mountains of Hope School, 100 Dar Drive, Crossnore, N.C., 828-733-4660, www.crossnoreschool.org. Weaving classes are offered to the public twice per year during the first full week of June and November. Classes are dedicated to teaching traditional Appalachian mountain weaving. Course includes all materials. Classes run 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, $400.
  • Carlton Gallery, 10360 North Carolina 105 S., Banner Elk, N.C., 828-963-4288, www.carltonartgallery.com

This story was originally published May 4, 2016 at 10:35 AM with the headline "An inspiring stay in the North Carolina High Country."

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