Small country of Wales boasts a big list of attractions
A mountainous peninsula on the west coast of Britain, Wales is a country of such staggering beauty that at times it seems straight out of a fairytale. There are lush green hills and valleys, a pristine sea coast, tiny villages speckling the landscape and, for extra panache, castles — although in truth, these castles appear more grim and forbidding than the benign fairytale version.
With a pastoral setting reminiscent of an 18th-century landscape painting, and with more sheep than people in many areas, it’s hard to believe that north Wales is an hour’s drive from Manchester, and south Wales is just two hours from London.
The short distances make traveling easy; the history and culture make it fascinating. On my most recent visit, I hit a few highlights in each region.
North Wales
The small coastal town of Conwy, situated on a picturesque estuary, is the kind of unspoiled village Americans love. Colorful buildings line the quay, many of them home to unique shops and pubs. But the most unusual is the lipstick-red house reputed to be the smallest in Britain. Only 6 feet wide by 8 feet high, it might be better suited to one of Tolkien’s hobbits than its original occupant — a fisherman who stood 6 feet, 3 inches.
Time spent quayside might include stopping in for a pint at a centuries-old pub and trying Conwy’s famed mussels, or fish and chips eaten the British way: wrapped in newspaper.
All of this is window dressing, however, leading to Conwy’s piece de resistance: the immense castle built by King Edward I between 1283 and 1289. Perched atop a rock overlooking the estuary, the castle, with its eight massive towers, definitely invokes a sense of power and might, which is what Edward intended.
Conwy is but one of the “iron ring” of castles he built to humble the rebellious Welsh. No doubt it did, but if a rebel’s stay proved to be a long one, at least he had a room with a view: the sea on one side and rolling green hills on the other. Along with the castle, Edward constructed a wall stretching three-quarters of a mile and equipped with 22 guard towers to fortify the town. It is still intact today and offers the best views of Conwy, the sea and surrounding hills.
Where to stay: If you fancy yourself a modern-day Lord Grantham and Lady Cora on holiday from Downton Abbey, book a room at Bodysgallen Hall.
This uber-regal 17th-century mansion hotel is in close proximity to Snowdonia National Park. Don your best duds for a pre-dinner sherry in the library, before dining on Welsh lamb, local lobster or salmon from the River Conwy.
Mid-Wales
The rugged spine of Wales has vistas reminiscent of the American West. Waterfalls tumble down granite cliffs to disappear into secluded pools, mountains are silhouetted against the sky and farms stretch to the horizon.
Visit Soar Y Mynydd Chapel, the most remote chapel in Wales, and imagine the devoutness of those who made their way here every Sunday by horse, or, in many cases, on foot, or head for Erwood Station in the town of Builth Wells. Once a stop on the Mid-Wales Railway, the depot now houses a tea shop and an art gallery showcasing the works of Welsh artists.
Mid-Wales’ most famous destination is the scenic market town of Hay-on-Wye, snuggled in the Black Mountains. If ever there was a monument to British eccentricity, this is it. Hay-on-Wye has a human population of just under 1,500 and a bookstore population of 35. Known as the antiquarian and secondhand bookstore capital of the world, it attracts bibliophiles from around the globe, particularly during its annual Festival of Literature (last week of May/first week of June.) I particularly love the Honesty Bookshop on the grounds of the town’s castle, where you select your books and drop your money into an Honesty Box — honestly.
Where to stay: You may have a difficult time choosing your Mid-Wales accommodations. Y Talbot, on the town square of Tregaron, is a 17th-century drovers’ inn turned pub with rooms. Pull a chair up to the crackling fire and enjoy a pint while watching locals at their darts game, and you’ll feel like you’re in any country pub in Britain.
You won’t have a better meal in Wales or a better night’s sleep in one of the unfussy, but extremely comfortable upstairs rooms. Mid-Wales is also home to the country’s most luxurious hotel, stately Llangoed Hall, anl elegant property from the 1600s with extensive gardens and expansive views of the Black Mountains. It is owned by Calum Milne, great-grandson of Winnie the Pooh creator A.A. Milne and is a frequent stop for Charles, the Prince of Wales, when he comes here to do princely things.
South Wales
It’s an easy drive from Cardiff, Wales’ dynamic capital, to the lush Wye Valley, where the River Wye separates the Welsh county of Monmouthshire from the English county of Gloucestershire. On the Welsh side of the river bank looms the Gothic ruins of Tintern Abbey.
During the Middle Ages, despite setbacks such as an outbreak of the Black Plague, Tintern Abbey flourished, and its prosperity continued until Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries. Today, the abbey’s shell, standing open to the sky, is an awe-inspiring sight with its soaring arches and windows.
Must-do in South Wales: For those who love England’s chocolate box villages, know that Wales has one of its own, and it’s easy to combine a visit to Abergavenny with a tour of Tintern Abbey.
Nestled amid seven hills and only six miles from the English border, Abergavenny is often referred to as “the Gateway to Wales” and is a colorful market town with high-end specialty shops and top-notch restaurants, showcasing the town’s obsession with food. Not surprisingly, it hosts an acclaimed food festival every September.
Pick your spot in the north, central or south part of this beautiful country and you can be assured that someone will greet you with “Croeso i Cymru” — “Welcome to Wales.”
This story was originally published December 22, 2015 at 1:38 PM with the headline "Small country of Wales boasts a big list of attractions."