Suppers celebrate what’s still in season as summer wanes
The end is near. Peaches are gone. Tomatoes, nearly. Soon we’ll be seeing the teetering mountains of green and yellow zucchini and corn at the grocery stores, now priced to move quickly, disappear as well.
I always feel melancholy when summer is over, just like when I’ve finished a great book. It’s the season we anticipate and imagine for months and when it’s here, it rushes past with such speed that we couldn’t catch it if we tried. If only I could’ve made one more cobbler.
But we’re in Texas, after all, and while the produce may be waning, the heat is still on — which means time in the kitchen should be kept to a minimum. We’ll have plenty of time for that in a month or two, when temperatures dip below 80.
For now, I’m making dinners that require little hands-on cooking, and anything that can be made in advance, refrigerated, then pulled out and eaten at room temperature, I’m all for it. Simple and very little assembly required is what I’m aiming for — all of these new recipes fit into the make-ahead, eat-later category.
Because while I can, I’m going to soak up the sun.
Ellise Pierce is the author of “Cowgirl Chef: Texas Cooking With a French Accent” (Running Press). Read her blog (www.cowgirlchef.com), and follow her on Twitter (@cowgirlchef) and Instagram (@cowgirlchef).
Wild salmon salad with roasted tomato vinaigrette
Makes 2 dinner-size salads
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 (8-ounce) fillet wild salmon, skin on
- Salt and pepper
- 1/2 head radicchio, chopped into 1-inch pieces
- 1 head romaine, chopped into 1-inch pieces
- Roasted tomato vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1. Heat oven to broil. Rub olive oil all over the salmon (including the bottom so it doesn’t stick) and put it in a shallow dish. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until there’s still some give to the touch (you don’t want the salmon to be too firm when you touch it — that means it’s overcooked). Set aside. Save time: Cook the salmon in advance and refrigerate.
2. Assemble the salads: Toss radicchio and romaine together in a large bowl and divide between 2 dinner plates. Flake salmon into bite-size pieces and put on salads. Top with roasted tomato vinaigrette or serve with vinaigrette on the side.
Nutritional analysis per salad, without vinaigrette: 249 calories, 11 grams fat, 10 grams carbohydrates, 29 grams protein, 59 milligrams cholesterol, 110 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber, 40 percent of calories from fat.
Roasted tomato vinaigrette
Makes about 2 cups
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
- 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed for vinaigrette
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Lay cherry tomatoes, insides up, on a large baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook until they begin to caramelize and brown on the edges, about 30 to 45 minutes. Save time: Do this in advance and keep the tomatoes in a jar in the fridge.
2. Make the vinaigrette: Put tomatoes and their juices in blender along with red wine vinegar. Pulse a time or two (I like my vinaigrette to be a little thick and chunky so I don’t puree), taste, and add more olive oil if needed and any additional salt and pepper.
Nutritional analysis per 1-tablespoon serving: 10 calories, 1 gram fat, trace carbohydrates, trace protein, no cholesterol, 1 milligram sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 78 percent of calories from fat.
Flatbreads with cherry tomatoes, flank steak and Gorgonzola
Makes 4
- 1 recipe pizza flatbread dough (recipe follows)
- 2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 large basil leaves, chopped, plus more for serving
- Salt and pepper
- Flour, for work surface
- 1/2 pound flank steak
- About 4 ounces Gorgonzola, crumbled
- Red pepper flakes, for serving
1. Make pizza flatbread dough the day before or the morning before you want to make these, so it’ll have at least 8 hours to rise.
2. Put cherry tomatoes, 3 tablespoons olive oil, basil, and salt and pepper in a bowl and let sit, covered with plastic wrap, for a few hours.
3. Make flatbreads: Allow dough to come to room temperature (15 minutes will make a world of difference in rolling these out). Divide into 8 pieces and roll each out on a floured board. Lay each one out on a long piece of lightly floured waxed paper or parchment so you can cook them quickly.
4. Put a large skillet or grill pan on stove over high heat. One by one, cook the flatbreads until lightly browned on each side. This should take about a minute each. Stack them on a plate after you cook them. Save time: Do this in advance, let them cool, and keep them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator or freezer.
5. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Cook steak: Put a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Rub 1 tablespoon of olive oil over meat, add salt and pepper to both sides, and place it in the hot skillet. Let cook until the meat easily releases from the pan (about 3 to 4 minutes) and flip to the other side. Undercook the meat slightly, because you’ll be putting it back in the oven on the flatbreads — it shouldn’t take more than 7 minutes, total. Let meat rest on a plate under a foil tent for 5 minutes before slicing it thinly against the grain.
6. Add a large spoonful of cherry tomatoes and 4 thin slices of steak to a precooked flatbread and generously sprinkle with Gorgonzola. Either put them directly on the rack — slightly messy, but you’ll get a crispier crust — or on a baking sheet. Cook for about 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted. Serve with red pepper flakes and eat right away.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 816 calories, 34 grams fat, 99 grams carbohydrates, 31 grams protein, 54 milligrams cholesterol, 921 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber, 37 percent of calories from fat.
Flatbread pizza dough
Makes enough for 8
- 1 teaspoon active dry yeast
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 1/3 cups lukewarm water
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a little more for the bowl
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- 3 3/4 cups flour, plus extra for dusting the board and rolling pin
1. Put yeast, sugar, water and olive oil in a bowl and stir. Let rest for 5 minutes, until foamy.
2. Add salt and flour, and knead dough for 3 to 5 minutes on medium-high speed in a stand mixer.
3. Drizzle a bit of olive oil (about 1 tablespoon) into a large bowl, put the dough inside, cover with plastic, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 232 calories, 2 grams fat, 45 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams protein, no cholesterol, 236 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber, 9 percent of calories from fat.
Mediterranean bowl
Makes 2
- 1 eggplant, chopped into 1-inch pieces
- 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
- Salt and pepper
- 1 cup organic quinoa (I like the tricolor)
- About 1 cup hummus (store-bought OK)
- 1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted
- 1 avocado, sliced
- 1 yellow squash, spiralized (see note)
- 2 heaping tablespoons pesto (store-bought OK)
- Chopped parsley, for serving
- Pita or toast, for serving
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Put eggplant on a large baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Salt and pepper, and cook 30 to 40 minutes or until browned, turning once.
2. Meanwhile, make quinoa: Boil 2 cups lightly salted water, add quinoa, cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Let cook for about 10 minutes or until you see holes in the top. Taste for doneness. Set aside. Save time: Cook the quinoa in advance and keep refrigerated.
3. Assemble the bowls: In each bowl, put 1 cup quinoa in the bottom, then add 2 heaping tablespoons hummus, half of the Kalamata olives, about 1 cup roasted eggplant, half of the avocado, a small handful of spiralized yellow squash and 1 heaping tablespoon pesto. Sprinkle chopped parsley on top and serve with pita or thin toast.
Note: If you don’t have a spiralizer, there’s something very similar available that’s like a vegetable peeler but with grooves to make “noodles.” I found mine at Tuesday Morning.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 1,053 calories, 64 grams fat, 104 grams carbohydrates, 29 grams protein, 4 milligrams cholesterol, 908 milligrams sodium, 23 grams dietary fiber, 52 percent of calories from fat.
French lentil summer salad
Makes 2 dinner-size servings
- 1 pound carrots, cut into 2-inch fingers
- 1 pound red-skinned potatoes, chopped into 1-inch pieces
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- Salt and pepper
- 4 cups cooked French lentils (recipe follows)
- 8 white mushrooms, thinly sliced
- 2 small handfuls arugula
- 2 tablespoons goat cheese, crumbled
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss carrots and potatoes on a large baking sheet with olive oil and salt and pepper. Cook 30 to 45 minutes or until browned, turning once.
2. Assemble salads: In each of 2 shallow bowls, put 2 cups lentils (I serve them cold in the summer) and top with about 1 cup roasted veggies. Divide sliced mushrooms between them. Top with arugula and goat cheese. Pass the balsamic — it may sound odd, but it’s great splashed on top.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 1,449 calories, 33 grams fat, 209 grams carbohydrates, 92 grams protein, 7 milligrams cholesterol, 1,075 milligrams sodium, 88 grams dietary fiber, 20 percent of calories from fat.
French lentils
Makes 6 to 8 servings
- Olive oil
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 medium carrots, diced
- 3 cups vegetable broth
- 1 pound lentils du Puy, rinsed
- 1 bay leaf
- A couple of sprigs of fresh thyme
- Salt and pepper
1. Drizzle a bit of olive oil in a heavy-bottom stockpot, add onions and garlic, and turn the heat to medium-low. Let cook just until the onions become translucent, about 5 to 10 minutes, then add carrots. Stir them around and let cook for about 5 minutes, or until they just begin to soften.
2. Add veggie broth and 4 cups water, lentils, bay leaf, thyme sprigs, and a big pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and turn heat up to medium. When it boils, turn it down to a simmer and cook until lentils are tender but not mushy, about an hour. Taste for seasonings, remove the bay leaf and thyme, and serve hot, cold or at room temperature.
Nutritional analysis per serving, based on 6: 319 calories, 3 grams fat, 48 grams carbohydrates, 27 grams protein, no cholesterol, 298 milligrams sodium, 8 percent of calories from fat.
This story was originally published August 22, 2016 at 3:09 PM with the headline "Suppers celebrate what’s still in season as summer wanes."