Food & Drink

Bite My Biscuit rises to the burger challenge

The ‘Rog’ at Bite My Biscuit food truck
The ‘Rog’ at Bite My Biscuit food truck

Doing a DFW.com Burger of the Week at a food truck is tricky. Food trucks are nomadic and often on limited schedules. Although they develop followings, most trucks are discovered by people who see them on the street, encounter them at events or visit a food-truck park and make a choice after doing some browsing.

In DFW, food trucks aren’t getting the media coverage they did a couple of years ago, but there’s still a scene, as evidenced by the recent Food Truck Championship of Texas in Graham, about an hour and a half northwest of Fort Worth. This year’s grand champion was Bite My Biscuit, a Fort Worth-based truck launched in 2013 by Grant and Candice Lambdin.

The winning dish wasn’t a burger. It was the Blaker ATW — fried chicken, bacon, avocado and honey mayo served on a buttermilk biscuit. But Bite My Biscuit had already caught our attention with its two burger biscuits, the CJ and the Rog.

The CJ is fairly traditional — well, aside from having biscuits for buns — with its seasoned steak-blend burger, cheese, “KM” sauce, tomato and pickles. But we’re fans of spicy burgers, and the full name of the Rog — the Rog Spicy Burger Biscuit — called our name (literally, they yell it out from the food truck when your order’s ready).

The burger: The Rog ($9) consists of a “steak-blended burger seasoned with our truck-made seasoning,” bacon cream cheese, candied jalapeños and habanero pickles, all served between two buttered biscuits.

The patty: It’s built thick enough to be substantial, but small enough to fit — OK, almost fit — between two thick biscuits. It came well-done, but so well-seasoned that it was hard to mind. The patty plays a supporting role (after all, the truck is not called Bite My Patty).

The buns: Anyone who has ever had a sandwich made with biscuits knows that biscuits are crumbly. These were also moist, with a soft texture and buttery taste. But there was no way they were going to survive the duration of the burger without a bun — er, biscuit breach. Usually we knock points off for a breach, but it was to be expected here.

The biscuit was excellent. Take a sandwich-style bite or two for a full burger mouthful, and then eat the rest with the fork.

The toppings: Burgers with spicy toppings often hit one of two levels: not spicy enough to merit the adjective, or so tongue-burning that the spicy toppings obliterate everything else. Even a Spicy Burger Hall of Fame entry like Fred’s Diablo Burger can have an off day when it doesn’t strike the right balance.

But in the instance of this particular Rog, the balance was perfect — the jalapeños had enough heat but were tempered by being candied; the sour bite of the pickles came through the habanero fire. The bacon cream cheese added a cooling effect to the whole thing. The spiciness lingered well afterward but was never overwhelming. Everything was in harmony.

The sides: Truck-fried potatoes ($4) were thick-cut slices, soft instead of crispy, hot and well-seasoned. The KM sauce came with them, but the seasoning made the potatoes tasty enough on their own. A $4 serving was generous; two of us had our fill, and there were potatoes left over.

The verdict: Bite My Biscuit does a catering biz as well, but it’s worth seeking out the food truck, not just for this burger but for its other sandwiches (and how did we miss that biscuit-doughnut dessert?). The first three days in July, the truck will be at Weatherford’s First Monday Trade Days, 201-283 Bois D Arc St. in Weatherford. On Tuesday, it’ll be at Grapevine Craft Brewery, 906 Jean St., from 5 to 9 p.m. for Tuesday Trivia Night. After that, the schedule is open.

To check Bite My Biscuit’s calendar, visit www.bitemybiscuitdfw.com/when-and-where/#place.

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