Food & Drink

Doughnuts all around: If you like it, put a glazed ring on it

Strawberry shortcake doughnuts from FunkyTown Donuts were served at the Fort Worth Food + Wine Festival.
Strawberry shortcake doughnuts from FunkyTown Donuts were served at the Fort Worth Food + Wine Festival. swilson@star-telegram.com

Long beloved, then briefly discredited, the noble doughnut is back.

The low-carb diet fad sank some doughnut shops and delayed Krispy Kreme’s growth. But the North Carolina-based chain is open at a new Westworth Village shop, joining two new local artisan doughnut shops to prove that what goes around comes around.

The new Krispy Kreme is at 6700 Westworth Blvd. (Texas 183) in the Hawks Creek shops, open just in time for the “National Doughnut Day” trade promotion Friday.

But last week, there was a line out the door for a new, locally owned doughnut shop.

FunkyTown Donuts opened to sellout crowds in its new stand at Eighth Avenue and West Rosedale Street, next to a sub shop.

FunkyTown — an urban slang nickname for Fort Worth — offers fresh-fruit flavors such as “bramble berry” (blackberry-lemon glazed), Key lime or “razzle-dazzle” raspberry-chocolate.

The menu board lists about 12 flavors of yeast doughnuts and three or four cake doughnuts for $2-$4 each, or cheaper “minis.” Doughnut holes in about eight flavors are 15-20 cents.

FunkyTown was crowded and sold out of several flavors during the early opening last week, but is adding an updated outside menu board and should be settling down into regular service. It’s open Tuesdays through Sundays until 1 p.m. (or until sold out) at 1000 Eighth Ave., 817-862-9750; funkytowndonuts.com.

▪ In Arlington, Crunch Donut Factory is open as a 24-hour build-your-own-doughnut shop with flavors such as the “S’Moregan Freeman,” “Beyonce Doughles” or the “Margaritaville.”

It also serves milkshakes and offers delivery through the Favor smartphone app. Doughnuts are baked fresh twice daily, and one specialty is a curious filled “square doughnut” (like a fried kolache?); 3200 S. Cooper St., 817-200-6790, crunchdonutfactory.com.

▪ In Denton, chef Tim Love has his own doughnut operation at his Queenie’s Steakhouse.

Doughnuts in wild flavors are served late-night Fridays and Saturdays only at the back door (it’s marked “Back Dough”) of the steakhouse; 115 E. Hickory St., 940-442-6834, queeniessteakhouse.com.

▪ Not to be overlooked: Shipley Do-Nuts, the iconic Houston favorite, is open at a new location at 7701 Crowley Road in far south Fort Worth, joining locations on Southeast Loop 820 in Forest Hill and several in Arlington and Northeast Tarrant County.

Shipley sells traditional yeast and filled doughnuts, but also a varied choice of sausage kolaches; shipleydonuts.com.

Meat U somewhere new

We’re waiting for the new Heim Barbecue to open this month on West Magnolia Avenue.

But meanwhile, the second Meat U Anywhere is expected to open in Trophy Club this weekend or next week.

Andy Sedino’s first craft barbecue restaurant became an instant hit in Grapevine. Along with Heim, Pecan Lodge, BBQ on the Brazos and Jambo’s, it’s considered one of the best of the recent new barbecue cafes.

The new location is at 91 Trophy Club Drive; meatuanywhere.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

This story was originally published May 31, 2016 at 11:05 AM with the headline "Doughnuts all around: If you like it, put a glazed ring on it."

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