Food & Drink

Stick schtick makes any meal more fun

If you have a rosemary plant, snip off the lower sturdy branches. If you don't have one on hand, use wooden skewers for the swordfish, potato and onion skewers with golden raisin agrodolce, and put a handful of store-bought sprigs directly on the fire.
If you have a rosemary plant, snip off the lower sturdy branches. If you don't have one on hand, use wooden skewers for the swordfish, potato and onion skewers with golden raisin agrodolce, and put a handful of store-bought sprigs directly on the fire. Bryan Gardner

Skewering food and searing it over an open flame has an elemental appeal. It is, after all, the oldest cooking method around, and every culture has its own definition of a kebab — from Greek souvlaki to Puerto Rican churrasco. Just add clear skies and a chilled glass of vino and you’re good to go.

Barbecue, Italian-style

The meat skewers called “spiedini” are the inspiration here: A pancetta wrapping protects chunks of fresh swordfish that are threaded onto rosemary branches, along with baby potatoes and juicy cipollini onions. A traditional sweet-sour agrodolce adds a tangy finish.

Do most of the work on this dish ahead of time, and then take in the sunset while it cooks.

Summer souvlaki

The best Greek food relies on fresh ingredients and simple techniques. Here, even the lemons and pitas hit the grill to get a little char, along with marinated lamb and chicken, cocktail tomatoes, and onion wedges.

To make a superior souvlaki sandwich, slide the bites off the skewers into a soft, warm pita and add a dollop of a feta-yogurt sauce that’s more complex than the usual tzatziki.

Island spice

There’s your typical grilled sirloin, and then there’s churrasco. In much of Latin America, the term refers to any kind of skewered meat, but in Puerto Rico only flavorful skirt steak is used. Let it stand for 10 minutes after prepping and the seasonings will sear into a tasty crust as it grills.

This take on a sweet- and hot-pepper sauce called ajilimójili (a-khee-lee-MO-khee-lee) lends a Caribbean piquancy. You will need four long skewers for this recipe. And it’s a good idea to wear rubber gloves when cutting the chile here.

For more recipes and additional tips, visit www.marthastewart.com. Questions or comments should be sent to askmartha@marthastewart.com.

Swordfish, potato and onion skewers with golden-raisin agrodolce

Serves 4 to 6

The agrodolce can be made up to three days ahead and refrigerated. Gently rewarm before serving.

  • 8 thick rosemary branches (each 12 to 15 inches long) or wooden skewers
  • 15 cipollini onions (about 1 pound total)
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
  •  1/3 cup golden raisins
  • 1 cup dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc
  •  1/2 cup white balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 15 baby potatoes (golf ball-size, about 1  1/2 pounds total)
  • 1  1/2 pounds swordfish, skin removed, cut into 1-inch pieces
  •  1/2 pound thinly sliced pancetta

1. Strip thick sprigs from rosemary branches, leaving behind small, tender ones. Chop enough stripped leaves to yield 1 teaspoon; reserve remainder for another use. Soak branches (or skewers) in water 30 minutes; drain.

2. For agrodolce: Meanwhile, halve, peel and thinly slice 3 onions. Heat oil in a saucepan over medium. Add sliced onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden in places, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in raisins, wine, vinegar, sugar, chopped rosemary, bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt and  1/4 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until syrupy, about 15 minutes.

3. Place potatoes in a pot and cover with 2 inches of water; season with salt. Bring to a boil and cook 5 minutes. Add remaining 12 onions and continue to boil until potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a knife, 2 to 3 minutes more. Drain and let stand until cool enough to handle.

4. Heat grill for direct-heat cooking (medium-high on a gas grill). Thread vegetables onto separate rosemary branches, piercing with stem end of each branch, and brush with oil. Season potatoes, onions and fish with salt and pepper. Wrap each piece of fish in a slice of pancetta, then thread onto remaining branches. Brush grates with oil. Grill potatoes and onions 5 minutes. Add fish and continue to grill, turning occasionally, until vegetables are charred in places and fish is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve with agrodolce.

Nutritional analysis per serving, based on 4: 672 calories, 19 grams fat, 62 grams carbohydrates, 55 grams protein, 106 milligrams cholesterol, 1,700 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber, 26 percent of calories from fat.

Yogurt-marinated lamb and chicken skewers

Serves 6

  • 2 cups plain Greek yogurt
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing and drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus 2 tablespoons juice and 3 whole lemons, quartered
  • 2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted and crushed
  • 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
  •  3/4 pound boneless lamb loin, cut into 1-inch cubes
  •  3/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 12 cocktail tomatoes, or 1 pint cherry tomatoes
  • 1 large red onion, cut into 8 wedges
  • 4 ounces crumbled feta
  • 6 pocketless pitas or flatbreads
  • 1 English cucumber, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
  • Coarsely chopped fresh dill, for serving

1. Combine  1/2 cup yogurt, oil, lemon zest and juice, coriander seeds, and paprika in a bowl; add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Mix well. Divide mixture between 2 resealable plastic bags; add lamb to one and chicken to the other. Seal bags after removing any air; massage meat to evenly distribute marinade. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate up to 1 day (remove 1 hour before grilling).

2. Thread meat onto long metal skewers (or soaked wooden skewers) with a lemon quarter on each end, leaving 1/4 inch between each piece to ensure even cooking. Thread tomatoes and onion onto separate skewers, then brush with oil. Season meat and vegetables with salt and pepper.

3. Stir together remaining 1 1/2 cups yogurt, feta and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Transfer to a serving bowl; drizzle with oil and sprinkle with pepper.

4. Heat grill for direct-heat cooking (medium-high on a gas grill). Brush grates with oil. Grill chicken until just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Grill onions, turning a few times, until charred in places and softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Grill lamb, turning a few times, until charred in places, 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare. Grill tomatoes until charred in places, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer meat and grilled tomatoes and vegetables to a serving platter. Grill pitas, flipping once, until charred in places, 1 to 2 minutes; immediately wrap in a clean kitchen towel to steam and soften until ready to serve.

5. Serve meat, onions and tomatoes with pitas, yogurt sauce, cucumber and dill, with grilled lemon wedges alongside.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 465 calories, 14 grams fat, 47 grams carbohydrates, 36 grams protein, 84 milligrams cholesterol, 663 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber, 28 percent of calories from fat.

Skirt-steak skewers with avocado and pepper sauce

Serves 6

  •  1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling and brushing
  • 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and quartered
  • 1 Scotch bonnet or habanero chile, halved (seeds removed, if less heat is desired)
  •  1/4 sweet onion, such as Vidalia, cut into 1-inch pieces ( 1/2 cup)
  •  1/4 cup fresh orange juice
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
  • 1 tablespoon packed fresh oregano leaves, plus more for serving
  • Coarse salt
  • 2 pounds skirt steak, cut crosswise into 6 pieces (each about 4 inches wide)
  • Steamed rice and diced avocado, for serving

1. For ajilimójili sauce: In a blender, puree oil, bell pepper, chile, onion, orange and lemon juices, cumin seeds, oregano, and 1 teaspoon salt until smooth. (Sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated; remove 30 minutes before serving.) Transfer to a serving bowl; just before serving, stir and top with more oregano leaves and a drizzle of oil.

2. Heat grill for direct-heat cooking (medium-high on a gas grill). On a work surface, lay 3 steak pieces flat in a row. Insert a long metal skewer through all 3 pieces, about  1/2 inch from one short end. Insert a second skewer through all 3 pieces, 1/2 inch from other short end. To ensure even cooking, spread pieces 1/2 inch apart on skewers. Repeat with remaining 3 pieces steak. Pat meat dry and generously season both sides with salt; let stand 10 minutes.

3. Lightly brush grates with oil. Grill steak, flipping once, until charred in places, 7 to 9 minutes for medium-rare; 10 to 12 minutes for medium. Let rest 10 minutes, then slice steak against the grain. Serve over rice, with pepper sauce, avocado and more oregano leaves.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 445 calories, 34 grams fat, 4 grams carbohydrates, 30 grams protein, 77 milligrams cholesterol, 107 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 69 percent of calories from fat.

This story was originally published May 30, 2016 at 9:33 AM with the headline "Stick schtick makes any meal more fun."

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