Two new cookbooks include recipes from Dallas-Fort Worth chefs
Spring has showered chef-wannabes with bountiful choices when it comes to new cookbooks.
Two new releases, Churrasco: Grilling the Brazilian Way ($30, Gibbs Smith) and United Tastes of Texas (Oxmoor House, $24.95), feature recipes by chefs local diners will recognize from some of their favorite restaurants.
As a native gaucho, or South American cowboy, Evandro Caregnato grew up in Brazil’s Rio Grande do Sul before eventually becoming the culinary director of Dallas-based Texas de Brazil in 1998. Now Caregnato has released his first cookbook, Churrasco: Grilling the Brazilian Way, which not only shares recipes for traditional gaucho dishes and Texas de Brazil favorites, but offers an extensive look at the gaucho culture and cuisine.
Readers will feel as if they’re sitting around an open fire next to Caregnato as he shares stories of his culinary journey as well as a history of the churrascaria, or Brazilian steakhouse. (Texas de Brazil in Fort Worth is still a popular alternative to the newer steakhouses on the other end of downtown.)
The book also provides detailed instructions for preparing a fire, along with step-by-step techniques for cutting, marinating and cooking meats and building your own gaucho grill.
In United Tastes of Texas, subtitled Authentic Recipes From All Corners of the Lone Star State, author Jessica DuPuy takes readers on a culinary tour of the state. She’s divided Texas into five gastronomic regions (DFW falls into “East Texas”) and discusses the culinary influences of settlers from Germany, Mexico, Spain and Czechoslovakia.
Recipes come from the author’s own kitchen and from chefs and restaurants in each region. A Neiman Marcus Cake is a sheet-cake version of the famous $250 Neiman Marcus cookie recipe.
Dallas chef Stephan Pyles, one of the founders of Southwestern cuisine, gets a mini profile in the book and offers his recipe for honey-fried chicken with white wine cream sauce. Chef Tim Byres of Dallas’ Smoke restaurant contributes pork chops with apricot-mustard sauce.
Fort Worth’s chef Lou Lambert is also featured, along with his recipes for buttermilk biscuits and apple cake cobbler. He recounts his days working on the family ranch and then discovering his passion for the culinary arts.
“I had always wanted to do fine dining, and I thought it had to be in New York, San Francisco or Chicago,” Lambert says in the book. “... Being away from home made me realize what a rich food culture we really have in Texas.”
Texas de Brazil lamb chops
Serves 4
- 2 frenched racks of lamb (with fat cap)
- 2-3 tablespoons kosher salt
- 4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
- 4 tablespoons good-quality lemon pepper seasoning
1. Prepare the grill with lump charcoal, letting it burn completely until the embers are glowing.
2. Cut the racks between the bones to form single-bone chops — each rack will give you 8 to 9 chops. (See note.) Place the chops on a work surface and season them with kosher salt on both sides. Brush a small amount of butter on both sides of the meat, then season generously with the lemon pepper seasoning.
3. Place a clean, oiled grate over the fire and let it become very hot. Using a pair of tongs, place the chops over the grate. Watch them carefully as they cook — the fat will melt and the chops will form char marks very quickly, so remove promptly to achieve a perfect medium rare. (See note.) Transfer the chops to a serving plate and enjoy.
Chef’s note: To make the rack easier to cut into chops, chill the meat in the freezer beforehand. The best way to serve these chops is medium rare, but if the chops are thin and it takes too long for them to form a nice char, they will become well done. To avoid that, make sure the temperature of the grill is extremely hot.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 701 calories, 64 grams fat, 4 grams carbohydrates, 27 grams protein, 157 milligrams cholesterol, 457 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber, 83 percent of calories from fat.
“Churrasco: Grilling the Brazilian Way,” by Evandro Caregnato (Gibbs Smith, $30)
Bacon-wrapped chicken breasts
Serves 6 to 8
There is a reason why Texas de Brazil and most churrascarias in the United States and Brazil don’t serve plain chicken breast: when cooked alone, the white meat may dry out and lack the flavor to compete with more savory cuts like picanha or lamb chops. So churrascarias wrap chicken breasts with bacon — this helps the poultry retain its juiciness and adds a smoky flavor.
- 1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1 cup red wine
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
- 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 16 (2-ounce) cubes
- 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
- 16 thin slices bacon (preferably applewood-smoked)
- 16 fresh sage leaves
- Freshly cracked black pepper
1. Create a marinade by combining the lemon juice and wine in a large mixing bowl. Slowly stir in the oil with a wire whisk. Mix in the thyme, rosemary and cumin. Season the chicken with salt, place it in the marinade, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or as long as overnight.
2. Prepare the grill by burning lump charcoal (method explained in the book).
3. Lay the bacon slices flat on a clean surface, and put a cube of marinated chicken on top of each slice. Place a sage leaf on top of each chicken cube, and wrap the chicken with the bacon. Sprinkle with cracked pepper. Slide 8 bacon-wrapped chicken cubes onto each skewer, making sure the pieces of chicken are placed slightly apart so that the bacon will cook evenly. Place the skewers on the grill and cook, turning the skewers frequently, until bacon is crispy and charred and the chicken is cooked through but not dry, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a plate and serve.
Nutritional analysis per serving, based on 6: 378 calories, 20 grams fat, 2 grams carbohydrates, 39 grams protein, 99 milligrams cholesterol, 1,166 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber, 52 percent of calories from fat.
“Churrasco: Grilling the Brazilian Way,” by Evandro Caregnato (Gibbs Smith, $30)
Apple cake cobbler
Makes 12 servings
Sharing this dessert around a campfire beneath the West Texas stars makes a magical experience delicious. Chef Lou Lambert shares two methods for his tender apple cake.
Crumb topping:
- 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon table salt
- 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
- 1/4 cup uncooked regular oats
Apple cake cobbler:
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter
- 3 pounds apples, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 8 cups)
- 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar
- 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon table salt
- 2 1/4 cups milk
- 1/4 cup buttermilk
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- Sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream
1. Prepare crumb topping: Pulse first 5 ingredients in a food processor until combined. Add butter, and pulse 5 to 7 times or until mixture resembles small peas.
2. Transfer mixture to a small bowl. Stir in oats with a spoon until mixture is crumbly. Chill until ready to use.
3. Prepare apple cake cobbler: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Melt butter in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish while oven preheats. Combine apples and brown sugar, tossing to coat. Spoon into baking dish. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until apples begin to soften and release juices.
4. Whisk together flour and next 4 ingredients in a large bowl. Add milk, buttermilk and vanilla, whisking until smooth. Pour batter over apples in baking dish. Sprinkle with topping.
5. Bake at 375 degrees for 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Let stand 15 minutes. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.
Campfire dutch oven apple cake cobbler (alternative method): Melt butter in a cast-iron Dutch oven over the fire. Stir in apples and brown sugar. Cook 10 minutes or until apples begin to soften. Pour cobbler batter over apples, and sprinkle with crumb topping. Cover with lid, and place 12 hot charcoals on top of lid. Cook 40 to 50 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean.
Nutritional analysis per serving: 469 calories, 15 grams fat, 80 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 40 milligrams cholesterol, 290 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber, 28 percent of calories from fat.
“United Tastes of Texas,” by Jessica DuPuy (Oxmoor House, $24.95)
This story was originally published April 15, 2016 at 3:05 PM with the headline "Two new cookbooks include recipes from Dallas-Fort Worth chefs."