DFW.com Burger of the Week: El Jefe at Enchiladas Ole
Some of Fort Worth’s best burgers don’t come from burger joints. They come from gas stations, sports bars, fine-dining spots, bakeries or, in the case of the El Jefe burger, a Mexican restaurant.
For the past several months, Enchiladas Ole — a 3-year-old Mexican restaurant on the east side owned and managed by Mary Perez — has been serving this mammoth, fiery beauty whose name translates to “The Boss.”
Until recently, it was an off-the-menu special, offered only to regulars. Word of mouth has spread, prompting Perez to add it to her regular menu; it goes for $11.99, papas included.
The burger: El Jefe is made up of a thick ground sirloin patty that weighs in at nearly a pound. It’s served open-face, with guacamole and shredded Jack cheese on one bun and the patty, a Hatch chile sauce and grilled onions on the other. It’s possible to eat it with your hands but unlikely you’ll finish it without a fork.
The patty: The quality of any burger greatly hinges on the patty, and this one was cooked flawlessly — a perfect medium, pink and juicy inside, blackened outside, to the point where its edges were crisp. Perez says she starts the patty on a char grill, hence its coat of crust, then finishes it on a flat-top. Takes about 15 minutes, Perez says, but it’s worth the wait.
A spicy house-made Hatch chile sauce was draped like a blanket over the patty and bottom bun, so much so that I could barely recognize the patty. But I could certainly taste it: one bite after another of smoke, black pepper and beefy richness, all perfectly balanced.
The bun: A basic white sesame-seed bun, nicely buttered and grilled.
The toppings: The Hatch chile sauce was very good, thick like gravy and dotted with bits of peppers. The meek should keep a water glass close by, although freshly made guacamole helped cool its punch. Grilled onions, coiled like a snake, added a pleasant crunch.
The sides: Similar to fries, freshly cut potato wedges — or papas — were exceptional. I loved everything about them — their soft interiors and crisp skin, their thickness and body, the simple and generous salt-and-pepper seasoning. Perez says each batch is made to order; she hand-cuts the potatoes herself.
The verdict: Obviously, Enchiladas Ole is best known for its namesake dishes. But El Jefe is good enough to attract a whole new audience: burger lovers.
Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Tuesday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday; closed Sundays. 901 N. Sylvania Ave., Fort Worth. 817-984-1360; www.enchiladasole.com.
This story was originally published April 14, 2016 at 12:33 PM with the headline "DFW.com Burger of the Week: El Jefe at Enchiladas Ole."