Burger of the week: The Bacado at Teddy’s in Colleyville

Colleyville and Honolulu are miles apart, literally and figuratively, but thanks to the Hawaiian-based burger joint Teddy’s, we’ve got our own little slice of pineapple right here in North Texas.

Founded by a couple of New Jersey boys turned islanders, Teddy’s is a big hit on Oahu. That’s where Brad and Nancy Sinex of Colleyville first got a taste of the signature flame-broiled burgers, and they’ve been trying to find one they liked as much ever since.

Rather than keep searching, the couple decided to open a franchise on the mainland, and last summer Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, all gleaming red and yellow with a retro vibe and surfboards hanging from the rafters, opened along Colleyville Boulevard.

The eager-to-please menu is filled with ambitious but approachable burgers (4-, 6- and 8-ounce patties) stacked high with creative toppings. There’s a Hawaiian Teri Burger and a Kilauea Fire BBQ number. But there’s also The Greek, with feta and red wine vinaigrette, and a Texas-inspired burger, with pulled brisket and onion straws.

Honestly, you could spend a few months eating your way through the menu, which also includes chicken sandwiches, pastrami, salads and a salmon burger, not to mention a slew of sides and extra-thick shakes.

But for our Burger of the Week, we zeroed in on the Bacado (about $9), one of Teddy’s most popular items.

The patty: Teddy’s meat is 100 percent ground chuck steer, no fillers, and the smoky, flame-broiled flavor is unmistakable and intoxicating. But the “proprietary grind” seemed a bit too fine, creating a patty that felt very tightly packed. I like a little crumble when I bite into a burger.

But one of the best things about Teddy’s is that it will cook your burger medium-rare, and when I ordered it that way, the patty was juicier with better texture, and it retained more natural beefy flavor.

The bun: A sturdy potato bun comes toasted in garlic butter, adding rich flavor to all the toppings piled high on the patty. (You can also ask for a wheat bun or lettuce wrap, but we’d go with the potato.)

The toppings: Avocado slices were a lovely shade of green, fresh and plentiful. Lettuce was crispy and the tomato was ripe as well. The pickle had nice texture and a horseradishy bite. A couple of slices of bacon could’ve been a bit thicker. Our only real complaint was that the cheddar was overpowered by the Teddy’s Super Sauce, a sweet and tangy dressing, which I liked more with the sides than on the burger.

The sides: Teddy’s fryer works overtime, producing some standout sides, like the Cajun seasoned tots and beer-battered onion rings. But the thing we’re still dreaming about is the Umami fries ($3.49, $4.59), savory and sweet, the fries are coated in garlic butter, Sriracha aioli and flakes of the the Japanese seasoning furikake. Delicious.

The verdict: Teddy’s is a nice addition to the Mid-Cities burger scene. It is flanked on Colleyville Boulevard by a Snuffer’s to the north and Sonic to the south, but this little slice of Hawaiian burger paradise deserves to stand out. Order the Bacado medium rare and a side of those divine Umami fries, and you’ll surely leave with a smile on your face. Mahalo.

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 4712 Colleyville Blvd., Colleyville. 817-503-2100. teddysbb.com

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

This story was originally published March 31, 2016 at 1:30 PM with the headline "Burger of the week: The Bacado at Teddy’s in Colleyville."