Food & Drink

Eats Beat: The Woodshed adds Love Shack burgers

Gus’s Fried Chicken has a crispier coating.
Gus’s Fried Chicken has a crispier coating. Star-Telegram

The Tim Love restaurant empire is crossing state lines.

But even with Tennessee locations opening in spring, Love said from the road this week: “I’ll be home tonight in Fort Worth.”

Love’s TV shows, festivals and Austin events sometimes leave his original Lonesome Dove Western Bistro and busy Woodshed Smokehouse to staffers.

“But I was at Woodshed all last week, and at Lonesome Dove four nights,” Love said.

“Fort Worth is where it all started. It’ll always be the main Lonesome Dove.”

A new Lonesome Dove and adjacent Love Shack will open in Knoxville, Tenn., Love’s old college town.

An Austin Dove is doing even better than anticipated, Love said. He hopes to expand the Fort Worth kitchen soon to add a popular Austin dish, scalloped game meats served as Italian fettine.

At the Woodshed, a riverbank grill and beer garden, a new menu includes a fried chicken sandwich (with Love sponsor Hellmann’s mayo) along with weekend breakfasts such as chilaquiles or a smoked-bacon eggs Benedict.

Also new at the Woodshed: Love Shack burgers.

“South-side people wanted Love Shack burgers on their side of town, so we said what the heck — let’s do it,” Love said.

With the expanded weekend breakfast hours and menu, the Woodshed is now open at 10 a.m. weekdays, 8 a.m. weekends; 3201 Riverfront Drive, 817-877-4545, woodshedsmokehouse.com.

Lonesome Dove serves lunch Tuesdays through Saturdays, dinner nightly at 2405 N. Main St., 817-740-8810, lonesomedovebistro.com.

Pigeon burger

For a few months last spring, Clay Pigeon Food + Drink served one of the best burgers in Fort Worth.

It’s back, but only Mondays.

Clay Pigeon serves burgers and fries along with the regular dinner menu Mondays from 4:30 p.m. It’s open weeknights and Saturdays; 2731 White Settlement Road, 817-882-8065, claypigeonfd.com.

Chicken report

Conclusion after a field test last weekend:

Gus’s Fried Chicken will be very popular when the new West Magnolia Avenue location opens, but also very controversial.

Tennessee-based Gus’s serves chicken fried in peanut oil with a spicy, crisp coating instead of the usual mild, soft crust. It’s tasty, but new for this market.

If you don’t go for the chicken, Gus’s also serves excellent Southern sides such as greens or sweet potatoes. Watch for it at 1067 W. Magnolia Ave.; gusfriedchicken.com.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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