Mellow Mushroom gets in on veggie burger action

Burgers are such a thing that a pizzeria chain that’s been slinging pies for 40 years wanted in on the game. Mellow Mushroom added two burgers to its menu this month and, in keeping with the chain’s hippie origins and ethos, one of them is vegetarian.

It’s calling it the “Herb,” and its house-made patty consists of that trendy duo of kale and quinoa, plus roasted mushrooms, brown rice, roasted garlic and shallots.

Those are strong flavors, and they give this patty a deep, earthy taste — very satisfying. It also holds together well.

It comes on a buttery brioche bun alongside roasted rosemary potatoes and is dressed “Cali style,” with avocado, sweet onions, cheddar, lettuce and tomato.

The carnivore in my party liked it better than the other burger, which is made with Angus beef. That one comes dressed “primo pub” style, with caramelized onions, Swiss cheese and garlic aioli, and those toppings would work great on the Herb, too.

Most pizza restaurants make it easy to dine vegetarian, but I’d forgotten how extra veggie-friendly Mellow Mushroom is. And not just for the well-designed meatless pizzas, like the Holy Shiitake (truffle oil is a highlight), the Mega-Veggie (10 veggies plus tofu), the Magical Mystery Tour (pesto base with spinach, mushrooms, jalapeños and feta) and the Kosmic Karma (red sauce with feta, spinach, tomatoes and a big pesto swirl on top).

The long list of hoagies includes an impressive four for vegetarians: avocado, tempeh and tofu versions garnished various ways, and the Righteous Portobello Reuben, complete with sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing and served on a rye hoagie roll.

Vegans should note: The pizza crusts and hoagie breads here are vegan, and you can request vegan cheese. But ask for the vegan menu, which guides you through the adjustments you’ll need to ask for (like not having your pizza crust brushed with butter).

Mellow Mushroom has nine North Texas locations, including near the TCU and UTA campuses and in Mansfield and Southlake. mellowmushroom.com.

▪ The one-day Texas Veggie Fair, a cheeky bit of counterprogramming that takes place on the last weekend of the Texas State Fair each year, is 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday at Reverchon Park, 3505 Maple Ave., Dallas.

Much has been made of the fact that the larger fair’s corny dog vendor introduced its first vegetarian dog this year. Was it a response to the Texas Veggie Fair, a sign that Big Tex has taken notice of this little biplane buzzing around his head?

Who knows, but it’s worth noting that the Texas Veggie Fair still has the only all-vegan corn dogs, and it has been serving them for years.

Food vendors also include actual wholesome fare from Spiral Diner, Snappy Salads, Whole Foods, Nammi (the Vietnamese food truck) and many more. Trinity Hall Irish Pub will have multiple beer tents serving local product from Deep Ellum Brewing Company, Fort Worth’s Community Beer Company, Grapevine Craft Brewery and more.

You also can shop clothing, beauty, health and pet products, and there’s a full schedule of speakers and cooking demonstrations, too.

Admission is free; some vendors may be cash only. Parking is $5, cash only, at American Airlines Center’s Lexus Garage at 2620 N. Houston St. From there, you can walk or bike the half-mile down the Katy Trail to Reverchon Park. www.texasveggiefair.com.

This story was originally published October 14, 2015 at 12:12 PM with the headline "Mellow Mushroom gets in on veggie burger action."