‘Eat Mexico’ cookbook author dispels myths about Mexican food

Bean and cheese tlacoyos

Lesley Téllez says patting these corn masa patties out by hand isn’t easy for beginners but promises that practice makes perfect. Try them with a group of friends and don’t skimp on garnishes. Téllez writes, “If you can’t find cactus, which Latino supermarkets generally stock, try shredded raw cabbage or carrots.”

▪ 1 teaspoon lard

▪ 1/4 small onion, the rest chopped for garnish

▪ 1 medium garlic clove, peeled

▪ 16 ounces cooked beans (any kind will do), with at least 1/2 cup broth reserved, or 1 (15.5-ounce) can beans, liquid drained and reserved

▪ Salt

▪ 1 pound fresh tortilla masa, or 1 1/2 cups masa harina

▪ 1 to 1 1/2 cups warm water

▪ 1 cup homemade requesón cheese (recipe follows)

▪ 1 (15-ounce) jar pickled cactus strips, or 4 large cactus paddles, diced and blanched in boiling salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, until just tender

▪ Chopped fresh cilantro

▪ Crumbled queso fresco

▪ Salsa of choice

1. Heat lard in a skillet over medium heat. When hot, add onion wedge and garlic. Fry, turning occasionally, until blistered and deep golden brown.

2. Add beans and mash roughly, using the bottom of a heatproof cup. (You don’t want them too pasty and smooth. In Spanish, they call the desired texture martajada.) Add a little bean broth if they look too dry. Cook until the flavors combine, adding more broth as needed, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Transfer to a bowl nearby.

3. If you’re using masa harina, place in a deep bowl and pour 1 cup of the warm water on top. Knead together for about 5 minutes to form a thick, pliable dough. To check whether the dough is sufficiently moist, break off a small ball and flatten it. If the edges crack, you need more water — up to 1/2 cup. (The masa should be moister than the average tortilla masa, as it will cook longer than a tortilla and shouldn’t dry out.) If using fresh tortilla masa, sprinkle with a few drops of water and knead firmly, adding the water a teaspoon at a time until the masa is very soft and creamy, about 5 minutes. (For fresh masa you will only need perhaps 1/4 cup of water total.) Grab a piece of masa and cover the rest with a damp dish cloth to keep it hydrated.

4. Roll masa into a ball just larger than a golf ball and, using your palm, flatten into a disk about 1/4 inch thick. (You can also place the ball on a tortilla press, but be careful not to press it too thin.) Fresh masa will be much easier to work with than masa harina, but if you’re using the latter, keep working and patting, pressing firmly on the masa ball to form a circular shape.

5. Holding the disk in your palm, add 1 to 2 tablespoons beans or requesón to the center, spreading the filling into a longish rectangle, without hitting the top or bottom edges. The filling amount really depends on how big your disk is — if the filling spills out when you try to close the tlacoyo, you have too much.

6. Fold both sides of the tlacoyo toward the center to enclose the filling. Press the seams together, pinching them closed with your thumbs. Set aside on a baking sheet and repeat with the remaining masa and filling.

7. Warm a comal or nonstick skillet on medium heat. Place the tlacoyo in the pan, without oil, and let cook. Once the sides start to dry slightly, turn it over. If you don’t start to see golden brown freckles, turn up the heat; if you see burned spots, lower the heat. Keep turning at intervals until both sides are freckled and crisp and the edges have puffed a bit, 10 to 12 minutes in all.

8. Garnish with cactus, cilantro, cheese, salsa and onion. Serve warm.

▪ 1 gallon whole milk

▪ 1/2 cup white vinegar

▪ 1 teaspoon salt

1. Stir together milk and vinegar in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Cook over medium-high heat until large, thick curds form on the milk’s surface and the curds have clearly separated from the thinner, clearer whey, 35 to 40 minutes if using cold milk directly from the fridge, or slightly less if using room-temperature milk. The curds won’t necessarily look big and lumpy — think more of a layer of algae on a lake. Try not to disturb the milk too much while it cooks, in order to give the curds more time to come together.

2. Remove pan from heat and let sit, uncovered, for 10 minutes, to allow the curds to continue to thicken.

3. Line a fine-mesh strainer with a layer of cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the curds to the cheesecloth and let sit for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until room temperature. (This gives the cheese time to set and cool off.)

4. Transfer cheese to a bowl or airtight container. Stir in salt, mixing until thoroughly combined. Use immediately or chill first in the refrigerator.

Cactus salad

Most often eaten as a side, this salad is sold by the kilo at most markets in Mexico. The dish is so common that there’s no official recipe, Lesley Téllez says, adding that it should taste fresh, bright and balanced with a hint of spice from Mexican oregano.

▪ 12 cactus paddles, rinsed, spines removed

▪ 1/4 large onion, sliced into thin slivers

▪ Salt and freshly ground black pepper

▪ 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

▪ 2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced, or 24 grape tomatoes, sliced in half

▪ 2 tablespoons olive oil

▪ 1/2 heaping teaspoon Mexican oregano

▪ 1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco, or other mild farmer’s cheese

1. Bring a pot of water to boil. While you’re waiting, cut cactus paddles into 1/4-inch-by-1 1/2-inch strips.

2. Add cactus, onion slivers and a pinch of salt to the water and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cactus is tender and turns a dull green color. Strain, discarding the cooking water but keeping the onion slivers. Let the cactus cool to room temperature.

3. Place cactus and onion in a serving bowl. Add cilantro, tomatoes, oil, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, oregano and queso fresco and toss to combine. Taste and add 1/2 teaspoon salt, then mix again, and taste for more salt if necessary. Serve immediately, or chill up to 2 hours.

Crispy carrot tacos

A healthier version of taquitos, these carrot tacos offer a crispy exterior and steamy, salty interior. Lesley Téllez says she was surprised to find them on a menu at a tiny eatery in Azcapotzalco, but loved them so much that she makes them at home.

“They’re deceptively easy and don’t need much beyond raw carrots and salt,” Téllez writes, noting that she pan-fries the rolled tubes and serves them with lots of lime juice and tomatillo salsa. Use toothpicks to secure them closed while cooking.

▪ 5 cups grated carrot (about 3 large carrots)

▪ 1/2 teaspoon salt

▪ 12 corn tortillas

▪ 1/4 cup canola oil, plus more if needed

▪ 1 (16-ounce) container Mexican crema

▪ 1 (14-ounce) package queso fresco, or any other creamy, crumbled cheese

▪ 3 to 4 limes, cut into wedges

▪ Tomatillo salsa

1. Heat oven to 200 degrees and line a baking sheet with a wire rack, or several layers of paper towels.

2. In a mixing bowl, toss grated carrot with salt.

3. Warm corn tortillas on a comal or in the microwave and place in a dishcloth to keep warm.

4. Place one tortilla on a work surface. Using your hands or tongs, place a small handful of carrot in the center, taking care not to spread the filling all the way to the edge. Roll the tortilla tightly around the filling and secure closed with a toothpick. Repeat until you’ve got 12 tacos.

5. Heat oil over medium heat in a large frying pan. Add tacos seam-side down and cook until they start to smell toasty, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn over and fry on the other side until golden. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet, then keep warm in the oven. Repeat until all the tacos have been fried.

6. To serve, place 3 tacos on a plate, slather with a layer of crema and top with crumbled cheese. Pass lime wedges and tomatillo salsa at the table.