Food & Drink

Eats Beat: In its 35th year, J & J Oyster is still crackin’

Oysters Laredo with two cheeses at J & J Oyster Bar.
Oysters Laredo with two cheeses at J & J Oyster Bar.

Can this really be the 35th year for J&J Oyster Bar?

Judging from the patio crowd Sunday night, the familiar University Drive hole-in-the-wall hasn’t missed a beat.

But if you think there’s nothing new at J&J’s, you’re wrong. The menu still has plenty of raw oysters and fried seafood baskets, but it also has more grilled fish platters and new dishes with south-of-the-border spice.

For the first time in 35 years, diners are coming for oysters “Laredo,” baked with Parmesan, cheddar, salsa and pico de gallo (half-dozen, $10.29).

If Fort Worth now wants fish tacos, they’re sold at J&J with fish or shrimp, grilled or fried, on corn or flour tortillas (three, $10.49; four, $11.89).

The list of grilled seafood is long and prices are reasonable: $9-$16 for platters. The menu also has sandwiches, salads and J&J’s familiar gumbo, clam chowder and lobster bisque.

The Fort Worth location is open later than most restaurants: until 10 p.m. Sundays and weeknights, 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

(That’s an hour later on Fridays and Saturdays than nearby Flying Fish.)

Both the Fort Worth J&J and a second location in Old Town Burleson are open for lunch and dinner daily. The Burleson location closes an hour earlier: 9 p.m. weeknights and Sundays, 10 p.m. weekends.

The Fort Worth location moved about 10 years ago from an old diner (now Salsa Limón) to one of the city’s original Taco Bell locations, 612 University Drive, one block north of West Seventh Street; 817-335-2756,

The Burleson location is at 125 W. Bufford St.; 817-295-9600.

Start the Press

Chef Felipe Armenta of Pacific Table and The Tavern Bar & Grill is adding a third restaurant, this one at The Trailhead next to the Shops at Clearfork.

His new Press Cafe will be open all day, serving fresh-pressed juices, French-press coffees, salads and sandwiches, including a Cuban press.

The Press Cafe will adjoin a new Mellow Johnny’s Bike Shop in the Trailhead Cycling & Fitness Center at 5000 Clearfork Main St.;

Hot dogs, cold delights

July 4 brings fireworks, festivals — and hot dogs and custard.

The first franchised Wild About Harry’s hot dog and custard parlor will dare to open July 4 in Old Town Burleson, replacing a former wine shop between Grumps Burgers and Babe’s Chicken.

Wild About Harry’s custard might be familiar from supermarkets. The Dallas location on Knox Street is a Highland Park-area sports hangout and summertime favorite.

The Burleson location is at 114 S. Main St.; 817-933-2556,

In Fort Worth, Curly’s Frozen Custard has added seasonal Parker County peach custard and now prepares for its annual July 4 hot dog-eating contest; 4017 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-763-8700,

Bud Kennedy's column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in 817-390-7538

Twitter: @EatsBeat