You can perfect the buttermilk biscuit, even if there’s no buttermilk in the house

• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2  1/4 teaspoons baking powder
• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 stick plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 cup buttermilk, plus more for brushing

1. Whisk dry ingredients: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and baking soda for 30 seconds. Toss butter into dry mixture to evenly coat, then press between your fingers to create flower-petal shapes and return to bowl.

Tip: Push the petals. The flat, wide pieces of cold butter are one of the secrets to creating layers of dough. (Not overworking the dough is also key; see step 2.)

2. Form dough: Slowly drizzle buttermilk over flour-butter mixture (to evenly distribute) while stirring with a fork. Stop stirring when dough begins to form but mixture is still crumbly. Transfer to center of a parchment-lined baking sheet. Gather dough with your hands, pressing firmly to bind, and flatten it into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle. Lift parchment along a short end of dough and fold in half, forming a 6-by-5-inch rectangle. Turn dough 90 degrees; gently reflatten to 6 by 10 inches. Fold in half again and flatten slightly into a 6-inch square.

3. Slice and bake: To keep things easy, form the dough on the same tray it’s baked on. Cut it into thirds in both directions with a large, sharp knife, to form 9 biscuits. Brush tops with buttermilk. Bake at 450 degrees until puffed, golden brown on top and hollow-sounding when tapped on bottom, 16 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a kitchen towel-lined basket; cover to keep warm. Serve with butter and jam.

Tip: Room to grow. After slicing the dough into individual biscuits, gently lift and separate them slightly, so they have space to expand as they bake.

Nutritional analysis per biscuit: 277 calories, 13 grams fat, 35 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 35 milligrams cholesterol, 382 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 43 percent of calories from fat.

For a savory kick, stir  1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves, 1 tablespoon chopped chives and 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves into flour-butter mixture. Whisk 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard into buttermilk before adding to flour-butter mixture in step 2. Serve with more mustard and sliced ham.

Nutritional analysis per biscuit: 277 calories, 13 grams fat, 35 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 35 milligrams cholesterol, 398 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 43 percent of calories from fat.

To take breakfast over the top, reduce salt to  1/2 teaspoon and butter to 1 stick in step 1. Whisk 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper into dry ingredients. Stir 4 slices chopped cooked bacon and 1 cup (3 ounces) shredded sharp cheddar into flour-butter mixture; stir in buttermilk. Serve with butter and a fried egg.

Nutritional analysis per biscuit: 313 calories, 15 grams fat, 35 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams protein, 41 milligrams cholesterol, 423 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 44 percent of calories from fat.

Pay homage to the scone by increasing sugar to 2 tablespoons in step 1. Whisk 2 teaspoons each poppy seeds and lemon zest into flour mixture before incorporating butter. Serve with sliced strawberries or strawberry jam and lightly sweetened whipped cream (whisk heavy cream with a spoonful of sugar to soft peaks).

Nutritional analysis per biscuit: 290 calories, 14 grams fat, 36 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 35 milligrams cholesterol, 383 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 42 percent of calories from fat.